Anybody know this boat design and what should I do for the repairs?

Just purchased this boat, came from Oregon Coast near Lincoln City. Anybody know who might have made this 1984 era boat?

Also you will see some rotted wood problems in the interior. The paint had bubbled and allowed water to enter at least one ply deep. This has rotted but the wood underneath seems to be solid, It hasn't dried out yet so I'm not certain of all the conditions. Do I use a chemical treatment to restore the wood and patch with a thin veneer and some epoxy and wood flour? Do I cut out the entire section and replace it from chine log up to extent of damage? Also the rubbing strake has been fiberglassed and is now bubling. Do I remove the entire strake and start over?

Views: 1075

Attachments:

▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Mike Dearing on March 2, 2009 at 7:06pm
Rick, not to hijack your thread, but I would really like to know the story behind "the wrecked" boat of AJ's.

Mike
Permalink Reply by AJ DeRosa on March 3, 2009 at 7:01am
Rick,

Sounds like you have been doing your homework. Removing both chine caps would be good. Poor work on one side would make one suspect of the entire "new bottom" project. I wouldn't worry about precoating anything during the repair. It can be helpful when assembling a new boat but repairs of this type are a whole nuther beast. Focus on the repair and you can easily finish interior and exterior when the work is done.

We found no surprises during the reconstruction of Dutch's wrecked boat. The boat is only 7 years old and was built by Cyrus at Ray's so the workmanship and materials were impeccable. Luckily there was no damage to the chine but scarfing on new gunnels was interesting as was the large lap scarf used in joining the panels. I'll post a blog on this project soon. This boat and some other restorations will be at Randy's show in April and at our show in May.
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 3, 2009 at 7:21am
Thanks again for the response AJ. Why are repairs different from a reapir when almost al of the parts are similar to the repair of Dutch's boat? Isn't new wood, new wood? Shouldn't I be concerned about keeping the wood that won't have any finish on it protected from moisture incursion? I am speaking of the juncture of ribs and frame members to the bottom, each other and the side panels of the boat. Will 3M4200 stick to an epoxied surface correctly?

Finally have I missed anything as far as you can see in regard to my scope and flow of work?
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 3, 2009 at 9:30pm
AJ, the sun came out in Spokane and I took a break from the computer to look at the boat. I made some discoveries and perhaps some new decisions. Your mention that you were going to soon add the blog on scarfing a large lap scarf helped make up my mind. Since I don't have the money or the time right now to do a complete rebuild of this boat I think that I will undertake a scarfed in repair that won't require removing the whole side panel.

One thing I discovered was that the chine log has been replaced with the high strength butt joint without any glue, fasteners or fancy joinery. The dimensions of the replacement chine is different that the original hence the extra spaces and access for water and dirt to gather and add to the rotting process. What other surprises are lurking under cover of wood, paint and Gluv-It/

Replacing the 3 or 4 side frames, scarfing in new ends on the matching bottom frame and painting the boat, adding new ash gunwales will either provide me with a fishing boat until fall or a boat to sell that is still quite usable for someone else that will hopefully provide me with seed money for materials to build a boat without hidden problems. This probably isn't a new idea, but it seems to make sense to me. Learning a new subject often takes a variety of paths, some forward and some to the side.

I would rather spend my time and energy with either a less potentially problematic boat or build my own with my own flaws and unique characteristics.

Again thanks for all you guys do.

Rick Newman
Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on March 31, 2009 at 10:22pm
3M 4200 will stick to an epoxied surface. It is best to rough that epoxy up with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper and wipe it clean with mineral spirits and allow to dry before you bed the chine.

Yes, always protect your wood, new or old, from moisture. The older a boat is and the more nooks and crannies that have been opened up the better oil is going to get in there and displace water. If the panels are new, a good soak coat of epoxy to bind the outer layer is always a help unless you plan to oil them also.
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 31, 2009 at 8:03pm
I have taken some time to expose more of the wood on the side of the boat that I started on. AJ, I don't think that I will need to use a partial scarf on this side. Plywood along chine log was wet and rotten. Chine log was wet and rotten. Side panels don't exist now. The ribs still exist but the panels have been recip sawed out. I love my recip saw and demolition blades! Old iron screws and even stainless steel screws don't stand a chance! Now I have to remove the gunwales and ribs so they can be replicated. I will have to scarf two full sides because I cant see the sense of having one new side. Beside I removed paint on the other side and there is damage underneath. So right now I think I have a good solid floor, an anchor, two oars, some pulleys, an anchor setup for the stern, a trailer and hopefully a good stem, a handful of stainless steel screws and a whole lot of work to do. I am assuming that the bottom covering is epoxy and graphite. Oh well, this will be a good experience before assembling the kit sitting in the garage. Anybody need a UHMW kit?

Rick Newman

RSS

© 2024   Created by Randy Dersham.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service