Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project

Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on February 21, 2012 at 5:31pm

Man, you certainly took it to a new level! 

Once you get bitten by ths bug, its tough to crack, isn't it?

Permalink Reply by Dave Barnes on February 22, 2012 at 8:23am

Very nice work, Guy!  I had done a quick calculation that said the weight of 3 guys + (325lbs boat + 400lbs other) figured into the bottom surface area gave me about 6in draft. I did not have a very good estimate for surface area since it varies with the weight/draft and the rocker, but the finished boat came pretty darn close to that. The other variable is getting in and out of the boat and going out in the rain adds water to the weight, but I got a supersoaker pool gun to keep the water to a minimum. I love the calibrated bags. The one in front looks a little like a buddy of mine.

 

db

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on February 22, 2012 at 7:12pm

Maybe I should have included the disclaimer "Any similarities between the mass simulators and persons living or dead are purely coincidental”.

 

If I don't go fishing this weekend, I'll start cutting frames.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on February 24, 2012 at 3:51pm

Today I committed to cutting wood.

 

Here is a frame jig I made using plywood from the crate used to ship the Port Orford cedar to my home and a couple of 2x4 studs.  All of the frames share a common angle (67.4°); on this frame jig one side is stationary and the other side can slide.  I'll use this when I glue the frames together.  Frame Number 1 (that closest to the transom) is shown.  I'll cut the bevels on the three sides after the frames are glued, then I'll notch for the chine logs, and then I'll install the three carriage bolts where the frames are glued.

This picture shows the state of the other eleven frames.

Here's the jig I'm using to rip the tapers on the side frames.  It works pretty well.  I'm using a few orbital sander pads to give it a little friction when the side frames are lightly clamped.

 

 

 

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on February 25, 2012 at 5:01pm

Here are a few more photos of the jig used to cut the tapers on the side frames.  Later I will modify this jig to cut the 10:1 scarfs on the rails, chine logs, and chine caps.  Also, today I started working on a router-type scarf jig for the plywood.  It's still too cold to start the epoxy work.

 

 

 

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on March 1, 2012 at 7:05pm

Interesting approach.

Be careful as you have not cut the bevels yet, correct?  You may end up with less material than you want at the sheer line.

When I build frames, I cut all the bevels first, then mark the sheer line on the side frame members, mark the width at the sheer line and then taper.  the tapers wont be the same doing it my method, but the important part is to end up with the right width (1-1/2" or 1-1/4") at the sheer line.

Three carriage bolts is alot.  #8 or #10 1-1/4" screws work fine.  The glue does most of the holding, then the plywood does all the holding once installed.   But there are many ways to do it as you've found out!

You definitely gotten bit by the bug!

Really nice looking wood.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 1, 2012 at 7:53pm

Thanks Dave.

The tops of the side frames get slightly wider as they go toward either end of the boat from the center.  This is meant to give, with the appropriate bevels, a constant 1.5-in.-wide gap between the plywood panels and the inside rails.

You might be right about the carriage bolts on the side frames.  I'll see what it starts to look like when the frames are finished and made a final decision then.

I moved the glueing operation indoors because the garage is still too cold for epoxy work.  I have noticed that the cedar has shunk slightly (nice phrase) as it's dried in our climate.  Notice the gaps in the wood in the drill guide; those weren't there when I assembled it.

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on March 2, 2012 at 4:59am

You certainly have it figured out.  Good deal. 

The cedar has shrunk! Nice.

This has been an interesting project to follow. keep posting!

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on February 26, 2012 at 8:46pm

I should have posted this earlier.  The underside of the jig has an aluminum rail that runs in the miter slot.

 

I do have another design question.

As all of you know, the traditional wood-frame drift boat uses stringers that run from one side of the boat to the other to create a platform for the seats.  My question is; are these stringers needed structurally?

I am considering building three independent stools as support for the seats.  Or, alternately, maybe a traditional rowing seat and two stools, forward and aft, for swivel seats.  Does this sound reasonable?  Or are the stringers needed for strength?

Thanks, Guy

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 1, 2012 at 5:48pm

I'm gluing-up the frames, two a day.  One in the morning and one in the evening.  Eight more to go, then I'll cut the bevels.  And the Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood and white oak are ordered and soon to be on the way.  In the meantime, here are some pictures of a drill guide that I made for drilling the 1/4-in.-dia. holes through the rails.  I know, I'm getting way ahead of myself.

 

Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on March 2, 2012 at 5:21pm

A drill guide for the hand rails? Now why didn't I think of that? My blurring, sawdusted, black butte portered vision at 2 o'clock in the morning could have used one of those babies! Thanks Guy...

Permalink Reply by Dave Barnes on March 2, 2012 at 5:26pm

Hand rails?

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