Wooden Boat People

By McKenzieDriftBoat.com

Stainless Rub Rail?

Hey, this may not be kosher, but I'm moving my reply in the "UHMW Chine Cap?" discussion and starting a new thread.

But Rick Newman found a source on the web for stainless steel bar stock and suggested the possibility of using it over the wooden chine cap.

Here are some questions that I had about that. Hope this doesn't mess things up by creating a bunch of redundant replies on parallel threads.

Rick, nice find on that link. I had been looking at standard stainless rub rail available from the marine suppliers and the price was several hundred dollars (!) which put it way out of my range.

So has anybody gone this route, essentially making your own rub rail from bar stock? One question is how you keep that bottom edge from becoming a fly line/leader nipper? Angle grinder?

I've never worked with stainless steel, is it harder to drill and countersink than with the regular stuff?

And do you run it the full length of the chine cap, or just the lower 12' or so of rocker?

Middle of the chine cap or flush with the lower edge?

Any other thoughts, concerns?

By the way, as for Ron's original question, my original build used UHMW chine caps. They worked well when I first built it (1996), but when I removed them a year ago to replace the bottom, they had broken into a number of pieces, pretty much equal to the number of screw holes, and allowed water to enter and rot out the chine caps. I'm not going that route, again.

Jack

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 22, 2012 at 12:13pm

Jack, you might check with Ray Heater or Cyrus Happy at Ray's River Dories http://www.raysriverdories.com/they use a stainless rub rail on their builds. I believe that they also sell it.

Rick Newman

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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on March 23, 2012 at 5:17am

Jack:You might consider brass half oval solidstock moulding. I used it on the stems and keels of the current build. Easy to drill,countersink,and bend. !/2 wide- 12ft long was $34 from Hamilton Marine. Other sizes are available. Covering the "bottom" outside edge should protect the chine from some hits.

Good Luck

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Permalink Reply by Jack Rose on March 23, 2012 at 7:10am

Hey Guys, thanks. I'm on it.

Though I am curious about going the stainless bar stock route and fabricating my own if anyone has any experience with that. Or I might try a local metal shop.

Jack

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Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on March 23, 2012 at 1:29pm

Hey Jack,

I tried the stainless bar stock once (from online metals). I bought enough for two boats but after drilling and counter sinking holes in 24 feet for one boat I never touched the second material, it was brutal!

Mike

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 23, 2012 at 9:39pm

So Mike, what do you do now, just white oak?

Rick Newman

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Permalink Reply by Jack Rose on March 23, 2012 at 7:23pm

Thanks Mike that's what I was afraid of, lots of trouble.

Jack

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Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on March 24, 2012 at 2:00pm

I have been using 1/8"x3/4"x12' Aluminum ala Keith/Steve Steele. But I am intrigued by Kevin's regular steel with Penofin set up.

Mike

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Permalink Reply by Jack Rose on March 24, 2012 at 6:09pm

Mike, where's the source on the steel/Penofin set up?

I'm getting close to deciding on brass. It seems it'd at least be as hard as aluminum, plus it will complement the amber-colored Sikkens I've topcoated my interior with.

Jack

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Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on March 24, 2012 at 6:14pm

Hey Jack,

Here is what Kevin C. had to say;1/8"x 3/4" steel strips screwed into white oak or mahogany with silicone bronze screws that do notpenetrate the ply.After installation coat with penetrol.Gives bomber protection and will take a big hit ,cheap and durable.Keep enough water under the boat and there is no drag...