Framed vs Stich and Glue? Anyone have opions on that? Looking over plans I have found some that dont have a skeleton frame and some do. I am after a boat that doesnt weigh a ton, so I am leaning to a Stich and Glue with no frame.

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There are many reasons that people might select one version of building over the other. Weight is not usually the consideration. As a general rule two boats of the same size, one built S&G and one framed will weigh about the same. You will be able to affect the final weight of your boat more with size selection or less decking or interior compartments than you will by selecting a building method.

Most frames in a framed boat are light weight cedar, most stitch and glue boats use a 3/8 plywood side or 1/4 inch with cloth on both sides. The epoxy and cloth of a stitch and glue is about equal to the frame weight of a framed boat.

Check out the link Jason listed below for more info.
Thanks for both of your responses. I settled on a stich & glue design based on all that I read today. I am getting very excited about the idea of building my first boat. I am the son of a naval architect so I spent many years around ship yards and on some big ships, SS United States, Mercy, Comfort, Nimitz, etc. So I know how the big stuff is designed and built. But I am heading into some new waters building my own. What is the real cost of building a 14' boat. I have seen some wildly differing estimates.
The probable reason why you are seeing wildly differing estimates on the cost of building a boat is because of the types of wood used, design and finishes. I am just putting the finishing touches on a 15' stitch and glue honky dory and have about $3,800 into it which includes everything (tempress seats, used DB trailer, oars etc...). Woods used were 1/2" marine grade doug fir for the bottom, 1/4" okoume for the sides, front seat/dry box, rowers seat dryboxes and rear pedestal seat, doug fir for all trim work. Fiberglass was 2 layers of 10 oz on the bottom (in/out) 2 layers of 6oz on the sides (in/out) and two layers of 10oz tape along the chine. Interior was bright finished (6 coats of Captain's Varnish) with the exception of two coats of Durabak 18 on the interior floor. Tempress cushioned seats where used both fore and aft and rowers rope seat in the middle. Exterior is three coats of Interlux Brightsides dark blue with two coats of graphite/epoxy on the bottom. Anchor system is a Dierks in-floor setup. Hopefully that will give you a good starting point to compare your boat ideas with my boat. You can cut the cost considerably if you do a basic bench seat layout for the interior, use all marine grade doug fir plywood and paint the interior.

Josh
Let's just say 2500.00 for a boat (round numbers). The subject of oars is a major religious debate and there is no reason for you to worry about the for now. Oars can run 300 - 500. You will need to row a few boats and oar setups to see what suits you.

In my view the following tools are required

circular saw
table saw
planer
miter saw
drill/driver
random orbit sander
quality hand plane (for the plywood scarf joints)
other odds and end which are small items

If you don't have a table saw or planer you don't need to buy them (although I would). Find a friend who has a shop who can mill things for you. Trying to rip long stock for gunwales with a skill saw is not safe in my opinion. Let's say you have tools. Don't let anyone snow you. These things are easy to build as you will learn. Just dive in.

If you have decided to build a stitch and glue boat, which is what I build I would recommend the plans offered by Sandy at Montana-riverboats.com. We all know Sandy and he just like the folks who run this site do a lot to help those who love fly fishing and boat building.

As for working with fiberglass and epoxy. No problem. Start by reading the user manual at:

raka.com

It will help you understand the process and how to get started working with epoxy.

As for dory building in general you should get of copy of Drift Boats and River Dories by Roger L. Fletcher. You will find this book invaluable in helping you understand what makes a driftboat/dory special. There are also lots of plans in the book. They are for framed boats but, lines will work for stitch and glue also.

http://riverstouch.com/origins.htm



After you start ask lots of questions. People from all over share information and photos of the process.

One recommendation I would make. Look into using plascore honeycomb for the bottom instead of plywood.

L

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