Repairs and UHMW

Last time I had the boat out I noticed more than normal water standing in the bilge.  Then I noticed that water had wicked up the side panel.  This is a problem!!!  During construction, I made every effort to caulk and seal everything, but my guess is that when I slid the bottom on, most of the 3M5200 must have slid off.  Hence no seal.  So...it looks like an opportunity to remove the offending side panel, clean everything up, reseal and assemble.  Big job.  Has anyone else tried this?  The boat should retain its shape during the process...I hope.  Suggestions?

 

Also, the same inspection revealed a multitude of fractures in the UHMW rub strips along the chine.  The boat is only 4 years old, and while stored outside, it does have a cover.  Additionally the side with the most severe cracking is not even in the sun.  I know UHMW does become brittle over time, but 4 years seems to be a bit premature.  During the reconstruction, I intend to remove the plastic bottom in favor of glass, epoxy and graphite.  While my previous boats did well with UHMW bottoms, this one is beginning to warp and pull at the fasteners.  I live in Seattle, so wide fluctuations in temperature are generally not an issue.  So... a layer of roving and epoxy, then multiple coats of epoxy and graphite mix.  I hope this works. 

 

I'd be happy to entertain your suggestions.  Thanks.

 

John,  17' Don Hill Flyfisher

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Permalink Reply by AJ DeRosa on February 7, 2013 at 4:14pm

John,

Sounds like a very good learning experience is in your near future. If you can build a boat you can fix it as well.  The most comon source of leaks is the chine joint.  The fact that you screwed UHMW to the bottom is another very good source of leaks. You might not need to replace the side panel or the bottom panel. Remove the UHMW and your chine caps.  Now you can make a close inspection of the probable leaking areas.  Let it all dry out before covering.  Use a 20 oz.+- triaxial cloth for a very tough bottom.  Be sure to wet it out well.  A steel roller is the tool for this job. A few flow coats with graphite powder will finish it off.

Now to the chine caps.  UHMW on the chines sounds like a good idea but it is not.  I tried it on a Steele boat back in the 80's and it lasted a few years before it cracked and fell off.  A piece of metal, SS, aluminum or just plain old steel are much better.  You really do need to remove the chine caps to do a proper bottom job.  Running bottom glass/resin over the chine cap or even just to the chine cap edge will result in delamination down the road.  Yeah, I've done that mistake too so I do know what I'm talking about.  Rebed your chine cap with a good bedding compound like 3M 101 or Sikaflex. Re attach the cap with screws and tighten just enough to get the compound to ooze out.  Don't bottom out your screws or you will squeeze all the googumpucky out of the joint. 

Should be good to go.

 

Enjoy the process.

AJ

Permalink Reply by John Lell on February 7, 2013 at 7:03pm

Aj,

Thanks for the advice.  I was not really looking forward to stripping off the side panel...or the bottom.  With any luck, I can get the sides to dry, and then seal it well. 

 

John

Permalink Reply by Warren Gibbs on February 8, 2013 at 12:58pm

Where in Seattle do you live? We live in Madrona and I've been working on a 14ft Rapid Robert. I've down loaded a few pictures of the boat. I've come to the conclusion that some 1/2 in stainless steel strips are the way to go over the chine caps. 

Permalink Reply by John Lell on February 8, 2013 at 2:40pm

Warren,

A few blocks North of Childrens.  You might be right about the stainless.  It certainly won't be fracturing like the UHMW.  How do you intend to use your boat?  Mine is mostly for steelhead.

 

John

Permalink Reply by Warren Gibbs on February 11, 2013 at 10:31pm

John,

Mostly for trout probably over in Eastern Washington. i got ahold of 1/2 inch, but i think t's to narrow so I'm gong to try and find some 3/4 to put over the chine cap. Be interested in seeing your project.

Warren

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 12, 2013 at 5:20am

Hello Guys,

I did a search a while a go and found Onlinemetals.com where they had stainless steel strips at great prices, I don't remember if they had 3/4".

Rick Newman

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