Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat

I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.

About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.

I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)

The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.

Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.

Thanks for being here.

phil w. (Dorf)

 

 

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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on January 29, 2013 at 6:31pm

Managed to apply a few boards to begin the second layer of the floor this week.  The second layer of 1/4 x 2 1/2"  is being applied at 60 degrees to the first layer.  Using epoxy on the mating surfaces and thickened epoxy between them.  Have to add heat to the boat to get the wood/air temp high enough to get the epoxy to kick and cure.

I added a 1500 Watt ceramic heater under the boat and draped a 4 mil plastic sheet and Sliver

tarp over the boat to contain the heat.  Managing to hold 75 degrees with the heater going full tilt.

Here's a couple of pics.

Here's the first 6 planks.

Here;s the third plank of three boards ready to be epoxied n place.  I have glued all the individual planks into groups of three to make it go faster.  I'd do more at once but each one is bent and twisted as it is applied and I am worried more would make it more difficult to hold it in place.

I managed today to add three more planks to the floor.  That makes 18 boards total.  Shown on the top are the next three planks I'll add tomorrow.  With the current warming trend it's making it easier to heat the garage and maintain the heat below the boat.  After tomorrow it's going back into the teens and we'll put things on hold for a while. 

More to come,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by tungsten on January 30, 2013 at 5:39pm

Lookin good Phil,just curious why you choose 60 deg.?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on January 30, 2013 at 7:23pm

Tungsten,

Good question!  I looked at 90 degrees and felt the boards would look and become like a washboard and difficult to fair smooth.  I thought 45 degrees might work but felt 60 degrees would allow for shorter planks and not have to twist as much as a 45 degree oriented plank. 

Don't know if it makes a difference in strength/stiffness, but the boards lie flat and will sand down smooth.  I sanded the first section of what I had glued up and it looks like I had hoped it would. Here's a pic of it sanded at 120 grit.

Today I added three more planks of three boards each and am almost half way there.  Tomorrow I'll add three more planks and will be half way there.  Here's a newer pic of today's additions.

The second plank ready to position and clamp into position.

The third one ready to wet out with epoxy.  It's just busy work from here on.  Getting anxious to see it done.  I'll epoxy and glass the bottom with graphite prior to flipping it over and glassing the inside.  When that's complete it'll get fitted to the faming and epoxied to it.  the corner will get glassed with biax and that should complete the hull, hopefully by Spring. 

There's still lots of Ice Fishing to be had!  Was in Ontario, Canada last week and got into some nice eatin Jumbo Perch through the Ice.

Thanks for following and keeping me honest,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 14, 2013 at 7:35pm

Dorf,

How are things progressing?

Guy

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on March 14, 2013 at 8:45pm

Guy,

Here in Michigan there are a few of us folks enjoy risking life and limb trying to entice fish to bite through the Ice.  I put the boat on hold for a month or so awaiting warmer weather.  I have more boards to epoxy to the bottom.  I've been ice fishing a couple times a week and it's been a good season. 

Nice mess of perch, eh/.

This week I was Tuesday and Wednesday over on the West side of Michigan, the Steelhead have just begun.  We had a few warm days last weekend and it pulled some nice fish into the rivers.  Had one of the best outings in years.

  Exactly why I am building the drift boat.  The Manistee River and other rivers here in MIchigan are best fished from a boat, but there are some good places too for wading. 

Here's a result.

My fishing buddy, Tuesday Snowed all day but fish were active.

Will be back on the DB in a couple of weeks.

Dorf.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 15, 2013 at 8:36pm

Dorf,

Very nice.  I'm glad to hear you've been getting out plenty.  Looks slick though, be careful.

Guy

Permalink Reply by Josh Wieschowski on March 17, 2013 at 8:33pm

That boat of yours sure is a beauty! Lookin good!! Im really close to planing down some material to get the oars started. I atleast want to get them laminated up while I work on the boat!

 

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on March 18, 2013 at 6:45pm

Josh,

What kind of wood are you you going to make the oars from?  I've been contemplating what kind of wood to use.  Thinking of Ash/Mahogany(accents)  for the blades and a lighter wood for the shafts, maybe spruce??

Keep up the good work,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Josh Wieschowski on March 18, 2013 at 8:37pm

Ive considered basically the same as you. I honestly think Im going to make 4 oars, two with ash and two with spruce. Then Ill try em out and see which ones I like better!?

Your idea of spruce shafts with the ash/mahogany is a great idea too.

Im glad I have time to think about this!!

No matter what I choose, I will be glassing over the blade and up the shaft around 6" or so.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on March 18, 2013 at 8:47pm

Josh,

I made a couple of paddles for my Stripper I made in 2006.  There are two things I did and  recommend.  On the tip of the blade, add a 3/4/1.00" piece of hard wood (ash, Oak, etc) across the end of the blade, and glass the entire blade just onto the shaft.

You'll want to oil (boiled linseed oil/Thinner) the shafts & handle all the way to the end.  Anything like epoxy is too hard for the hands and you'll blister easily rowing. 

Getting pumped!

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Josh Wieschowski on March 18, 2013 at 9:19pm

Thanks Phil, Ive heard the same about oil being the way to go! I will definately add ash to the tips if I end up using spruce. Im getting pumped too! As my boat progresses I will have time between epoxy/ or varnish coats to start laminating!

Ill be ripping my stock and taking one piece end for end, and or rotating to keep the grain closely related between pieces and relaminate with titebond III.

From what Im told, this will be the best way!?

Would you agree?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on March 18, 2013 at 10:07pm

Josh,

I had not thought of orienting the wood end for end.  But maybe that'll work.  I was/am thinking that I'll orient the grain of the three pieces of wood (assuming I use 4/4 stock) so the grain is opposing to prevent any warping or movement.  I'm thinking the glued up blank will end up 8 1/2 ft.+ x 2.125 SQ. w/32.00" long blades included.  The blades will be glued up stock with a couple of mahagony strips to add some pizazz, eh

I used TB II on the paddles and they are still looking pretty darn good.

From Wooden Boat Forum:

"Default Re: How would you increase the size of wooden oar grips?

I like both Terry and David's suggestions, but David's a little more, I think.  You definitely want smooth-sanded, bare wooden grips, not leather or cord or any of that blister-wreaking nonsense.  With a new handle tenoned into the oar loom, you could spend your time really getting the grips shaped just to your liking on the bench before installing them on the oar.  Make your tenon at least 3-4" long and 1" diameter and they should be plenty strong when glued with epoxy.
I like my oar handles somewhat ovaled like a kayak paddle's grip for eyes-off indexing.
Default Re: How would you increase the size of wooden oar grips?
I traced the end of a sledge hammer handle to describe the oval. It fits my hands quite nicely.

More to come,

phil w.

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