Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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I’ve been using a lot of 3M 5200 marine adhesive/sealer on the project. Here’s what I think of the product...

1) It takes a long time to fully cure. About a week as far as I can tell. So unlike epoxy, there is no need to hurry when you are using it. You have all the time you need. 

2) The above statement is important, because once it does cure, that’s it. There ain’t no going back, so you better have it right. There’s a sense of permanency with this product. 

3) It cures like a hard rubber. It’s not solid and brittle like epoxies and most glues. I think that’s a good thing for wooden boats. 

4) It’s tenacious and messy. But you have plenty of time to clean up. Interlux 333 is said to be a good solvent for 3M 5200, but I haven’t tried it yet. 

5) I use a stiff brush to spread the 3M 5200 onto both mating surfaces. I trim the bristles of those cheap soldering flux brushes from Harbor Freight to stiffen them. 

6) I think bilge paint will adhere to the cured 3M 5200. I haven’t tried yet. And there is contradictory information on the internet (as always). 

This is what I mean by “it better be right”. 

Starting to paint the bottom frames and transom. 

What finish are you putting on your ribs? I could joke and say it looks like BBQ sauce on your ribs! You are doing quite a thorough job.

Rick N

It kind of does... doesn’t it. 

It’s Sandusky’s Chris Craft Mahogany Bilge Paint. 

Howdy Guy,

Sounds like you are off to a good start with your reading and choice of materials.  The Port Orford Cedar is good stuff.  That's what I'm using for floor boards on a 16ft. Don Hill drift boat I'm building.  Found a little mill just a few miles out of Gold Beach, Oregon that had some rough cut Port Orford Cedar at a pretty good price.  Best of luck with your project.

Bill Dodson

Troy, Mt

Hi Bill. I finished the drift boat some time ago. My latest posts are for my second project. I’m restoring a 1961 Chris Craft 17-ft runabout. 

Howdy Guy,

Duh! Guess I better pay more attention to posting dates when I respond.  Wow, a 61 Chris Craft, where did you find that?  The perfect project for the pandemic!

Regards,

Bill Dodson

Troy, Montana

I found it on Craigslist. I bought it from the third owner, Terry and Gael from Coeur d’Alene, Idaho. They bought it in 2005 when they lived in California and never had it in the water. I don’t think it’s been in the water since 2001. The engine was destroyed from corrosion on the water cooling side. Must have been used in salt water and neglected. So I purchased a new Chevy 350 small block setup for 200 hp. The original engine was a 283 setup for 185 hp. 

You might have trouble keeping that beauty toned down in a "No Wake" zone.

Bill Dodson

The bottom is slowly coming together. 

That is going to be one solid boat!

Rick N

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