Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project

Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on March 22, 2021 at 7:39am

Why 52-million instead of a non-curing bedding compound?

It won't affect you in your lifetime, but someone in 50 years will have to burn the boat to the ground to detach the planks rather than being able to rebuild.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 22, 2021 at 9:52am

Hi Shawn,

You make a good point. What I really like about the 5200 is the long cure time. There is absolutely no need to rush. But like you say, it’s the most permanent product there is.

I’m pretty committed to using 5200 on the bottom planks below waterline. And I’m also going to fiberglass the bottom after all the fairing is done.

I’m still open to suggestions on the bedding for the bright side. Maybe 3M 4200, Sikaflex 291, or Thixo Flex. I won’t use 5200 for any through hull fittings.

Of these Sikaflex 291 is maybe the best candidate for the bright side. 

Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on March 22, 2021 at 9:56am

At least bed your screws in something softer..gluing screws in with 5200 makes it hard to even cut things later. :)

EVERYTHING is epoxied on my dory...but almost no metal fasteners.  My logic is that I'll cut sections out for repair and reglue.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 24, 2021 at 7:01am

And I should add that I have zero sympathy for the person who has to deal with this boat in 2071. : )

Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on March 24, 2021 at 7:14am

haha!

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 26, 2021 at 12:41pm

Chris Craft. The side planks are 1/2 inches thick. And most are about 6 1/2 inches wide. The backer-rails are 1/2 inches thick and 1 1/2 inches wide. The original wood screws used to hold the planks to the backer-rails were #8 by 1/2 inches. Almost all of these screws failed and were grabbing nothing.

I decided to install extra lumber to the backing-rails by way of 2 by 3/4 inches mahogany strips. To better accept the curvature of the backing-rails I made a series of 1/2 inches deep cuts to the side that lays against the rails. The cuts are made in between the screw locations of the planks.

This should allow me to use #10 by 1 1/4 inches wood screws for the planks. 


Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 27, 2021 at 9:12am

Your boat will be stronger than the proverbial masonry dunny. Look it up in a British inclined dictionary. The three little piggies brick house has nothing on your construction techniques!

Rick

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 27, 2021 at 10:07am

Thanks Rick. I had the luxury of seeing where the original construction failed over the course of 60 years. That gives me the opportunity to make these modifications. 

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 27, 2021 at 10:06am

Chris Craft. Toward the bow the backer-rails take on a curvature in addition to laying along the frames. Too much curvature for the 2 by 3/4 inches lumber to handle. To accommodate this I made paper patterns again and cut two strips (for each section) out of the 1/4 inches plywood. That will give an extra inch of wood for the wood screws to bite. 

Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on March 27, 2021 at 10:16am

I really appreciate your attention to detail Guy!

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 27, 2021 at 2:30pm

Thanks Shawn. 

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on March 27, 2021 at 2:31pm

Chris Craft. All the support pieces for the port side. Coated with Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. 

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