Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project

Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on April 21, 2013 at 2:23pm

I still suck at varnishing.  It's better than the first go around, it's still not great, but it's good enough.

This picture shows the boat after sanding the runs out of the first two coats of varnish and cleaning up with damp towels.

This picture shows the third (total) coat of varnish on the sides.  This time I thinned the varnish with about 20% solvent, which helped.  It's about 58°F in the garage.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 21, 2013 at 5:16pm

Guy, It's looking pretty good. I have spent much more, much more on sandpaper than paint. With three coats of the Comex U-5000 on the sides of my boat I still have 1/3 left. So about 420 a coat, with $20 of sandpaper:<)

I spent time sanding again this weekend as I learn that everytime I use a new material, in this case the Gloss Clear U5001 I have to learn the proper thickness or thin-ness(sp?) as well as what I should set the gun to. How much air, what width of spray fan, etc. I stick with 28 to 30 PSI and that seems to work fine. So hopefully another coat of clear tonight.

I also sanding the overspray and such on the bottom in anticipation of a final coat of epoxy & graphite.

Keep up the good work.

Building a boat is much like fighting a war consisting of many battles, some of which you win the first time and some you have to refight several times! However if we stick with it long enough we will win and not the wood, epoxy, varnish or whatever.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by tungsten on April 21, 2013 at 5:27pm

Guy,I too started my project with big hopes of a mirror clear finish,over time you realize its just a boat and where not pro  autobody guys.Put on some more coats and go catch some fish.

Your boat has to be one of the nicest first time builds out there.Congrats.

 

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on April 21, 2013 at 5:38pm

Guy,

I am 100% in agreement with Rick and Tungsten.  Your boat is a as well built as any and it shows.  The varnishing is just a speed bump. 

Dorf

 

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 4, 2013 at 6:03pm

There are some runs, bristles, and bugs to be seen; but the sides have 6 coats of varnish!  Now it's time to start varnishing the floor and the chine caps.  I also need to order rub-rails for the chine caps.

Permalink Reply by chris towles on May 4, 2013 at 6:33pm
If u haven't already epoxied the chine battens I would advise considering oil. That epoxy varnish on those Chines will barely make it to the boat ramp before rocks and trailers chip and destroy it. Then you have water coming in contact with bare wood. Oil is real easy to reapply and touch up when your Chines get hammered and they will. Even if you run strips and everything, Chines get hammered. I tried to epoxy graphite the bottoms of my Chines and half of it came off within two river trips.
Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 5, 2013 at 11:07am

Chris,

The chine caps are already coated with epoxy.  So it's too late to oil them.

But thanks for the warning.

Guy

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 5, 2013 at 11:05am

What should I get for rub rails on the chine caps?  And what size (1/2-in. or 3/4-in.)?  Thanks

Hollow-back stainless steel.

Solid stainless steel.  (This is more that double the price of the others.)

Solid brass.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on May 5, 2013 at 4:57pm

If it were me i'd stick with the more modern look to match your seats.So anything but brass.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on May 6, 2013 at 7:03pm

Guy,

Consider buying 360 brass flat stock, like 1/8" x 1" x 12' (~$ 77. ea) and run it through your router with a 1/8" Radius Carbide Bit to make the outside edges a radius.  It'll take several passes through the router but is very doable.  You can get it in different grades, there's even a Marine Grade (464 I think) also an aluminum Bronze but they are more money.

http://www.metalsdepot.com/catalog_cart_view.php?msg=

Just MHO,

Dorf

FYI,

360 Brass (Free Machining Brass) Free Machining brass is the most commonly used of the brass rod and bar items.  The presence of lead in the alloy creates a highly machinable material that can easily be cut and shaped into whatever you need.  It is not so good, however, at forming operations.

 

C360 Free Machining Brass
Minimum Properties Ultimate Tensile Strength, psi 58,000
Yield Strength, psi 45,000
Elongation 25%
Rockwell Hardness B78
Chemistry Copper (Cu) 60 - 63%
Zinc (Zn) 35.5%
Iron (Fe) 0.35% min
Lead (Pb) 2.5 - 3.7%
Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 6, 2013 at 8:06pm

Thanks Tungsten and thanks Phil.

I went with the (oval) 3/16-in. by 3/4-in. solid-back 304 stainless steel from cruisermarine.com.  I ordered four 8-ft lengths and they are shipped via UPS.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on May 11, 2013 at 8:43pm

The inside-sides have six coats of varnish and the chine caps have four.  The floor has one and needs at least two more.  I'm not at all pleased with the result of my varnishing, but it will have to do.  The rub rails for the chine caps should be here on Wednesday.

Soon it will be time to prime and paint the outside and reassemble the hardware!

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