Last night we put the bottom glass on the third boat, now christened by its to-be owners, "Glen Canyon," as that is where it will be used (the 15-mile stretch from Glen Canyon Dam to Lee's Ferry). We're getting a little smarter about pre-marking the placement of the glass and the shiny plastic top-sheet, so it is all coming together much quicker than earlier attempts. Today I'll peel the shiny plastic off, graphite the bottom, and give the light Meranti panel a coat of dark varnish in hopes of convincing it to look like its brother panels (they all looked the same when we scarfed them!).

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Comment by Brad Dimock on April 1, 2010 at 9:48pm
I used 4oz on the sides (1 layer--just enough to keep the paint/varnish from checking) and a layup of 16 oz on the bottom, with an additional 18 oz of chine build-up.

No weight needed for the Duralar--except in the picture above where you see two boards lightly holding down the ends of the sheet so it doesn't curl up.

Just be careful not to squeegee TOO hard and make too much of a dent in the layup. It won't be perfect, but it'll be pretty slick, quick, and easy.

I'm thinking one layer of Z-Spar Captain's Varnish will be enough to cut the UV, which is the only reason I'm putting it on anyhow.


Here's the source I used--$237.04 postpaid ( just looked it up) for 100 feet of 40" by .010"
Ken Bachelor
Industrial Division Sales - Grafix, Inc.
Tel: 800-447-2349 ext. 133 Fax: 216-581-9041
Email: ken@grafixplastics.com
Comment by Rick Newman on April 1, 2010 at 8:48pm
Interesting techniques ,both the Dur Lar and the rolling and tipping off of the varnish. What weight of glass do you prefer, do you weight the Dura Lar down or does it evenly spread the epoxy after you move the bubbles out? Do you also roll on multiple coats of varnish.

Thanks for sharing your techniques, I greatly appreciate it. I searched for Dura Lar on the web and found multiple sources. Tomorrow I'll contact the local art supply and plastics shops here in Spokane.

Rick Newman
Comment by Brad Dimock on April 1, 2010 at 7:14am
That side panel is unfinished. It is done by laying the glass cloth on the raw wood, impregnating it with WEST resin, then laying a sheet of Duralar plastic over it and squeegeeing the bubbles out from under it. After the WEST kicks, the Duralar peels off, leaving the finish you see in the pictures. It's a real labor savor, not to mention a resin saver. We bought a 100' roll of Duralar for $240 and will end up having done three boats with it--the inside and outside of the floors and sides of two boats, and the exterior of this last boat. A bargain I think.If you look close in this picture, you can see the Duralar on the bottom of the boat. I peeled that layer off yesterday morning, sanded, and rolled on a coat of graphite epoxy.
The next move on the side-panels is to sand lightly and varnish, which I expect I'll do with a roller and brush it out--this being done simply because epoxy and UV don't mix.
Comment by Rick Newman on April 1, 2010 at 7:03am
Brad, you guys do great work. I am wondering what your side treatment is, ie, fiberglass, epoxy and varnish? varnish only? Spray painted? Rolled, brushed? The light reflection sure makes it look smooth.

Rick Newman
Comment by Brad Dimock on March 31, 2010 at 11:10pm
Yeah, I shouda--coulda--woulda------but didn't. Damn. I little burnt umber oil paint in the varnish does wonders, though. Next time....
Comment by Dave Z on March 31, 2010 at 8:14pm
That sure is a difference in panel colors.

The way I selected sheets to match up was to get them wet. Just a wet finger tip on each sheet gives a pretty good indication of what they will look like under glass.

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