I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.
About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.
I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)
The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.
Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.
Thanks for being here.
phil w. (Dorf)
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Thanks Josh for the kind words. I managed the last two days to add the final planks to the bottom of the boat. After the epoxy cures I need to fair the bottom and prep it for the glass. Trying to decide if I should fit it to the bottom framing prior to glassing or do it after. I'm thinking before is better.
I think I'll let her set a few days, let the epoxy harden and wait for the rain to stop,then do it. We've been getting hit with rain almost every day for the last week and a half and more is on the way. Here's yesterday's additions:
Todays additions:
The bottom will get two layers of 6 Oz. Glass with graphite and the inside surface will have a single layer of 6 Oz. Currently I am planning on using West's Six-10 to "glue" the bottom to the framing then use a six inch bi-axial strip around the edge perimeter.
Friday I plan to pick up the steel for the trailer and order the Axle. The basic trailer frame will be 54" x 72" long using 3" x 3" 11 Ga. mild steel tubing. It'll be pretty much as per the posting here by Tom Anderson's drawing.
Lot's to do, but getting pumped. Most of the honey-dos are behind me for now. But we all know how that can change in a heart beat, eh.
Dorf
OK I'm confused now,you did all that work to get the second layer on.Now you plan on covering with graphite??All that wood grain will disappear.You could have just put plywood down no?
I like the layers of 6oz, done right you wont even notice it.But to cover all that wood with graphite just to make it black??
Sorry Dorf,my understanding was the 60* second layer was to be seen not covered , maybe i'm missing something.
Tungsten,
When I started this boat I had 210 BF of Ash (all 4/4 & 5/4) x 10 ft. One of the goals I had in mind was to use up available materials I had on hand. I saw a DB built by the guy, discussed recently (Orvis Mini DB). He uses Cedar and does his bottoms as laminates. That's when the idea came to me to do it and I used the material on hand and did not have to purchase any more than I needed to. Besides it is/was a challange for me to make it work.
The graphite was a late decision to add protection from sand, rocks and wooden things that live in rivers. Besides the inside bottom (varnished) will be seen. What else can I say!
Dorf
ps: The second layer is to achieve a 1/2" thick bottom with maximum strength. I have already seen what can happen to the bottom of a glassed/varnished bottom, on my canoe. It can get to be a lot of work to keep it looking like new.
Uh yes use what ya got,
What?graphite gives you protection?I'm a non believer in the whole graphite thing.
Tungsten,
Well, It's my first go at this. Ask me in a year and I'll let you know how it works.
Dorf
Dorf, your boat is looking good. I like the challenge of trying new things to see if they work as witnessed by my build. We can compare notes in a couple of years to see how things go.
Rick
Rick,
Am anxious to see your boat after you get all the "inside stuff" in it. It's going to be beautiful. I like your persistance on getting it right. Nice exterior color, as it will complement the interior as you pictured it earlier.
As things develop after we have used the boats for their intended use it will be interesting to see how the hold up.and perform.
Dorf
Dorf, I thought we were just supposed to put them on trailers and drive them from boat show to boat show:<) More pictures soon, the clock is ticking, need to leave by Friday early morning at the latest to get to the Wooden Boat Festival.
Yesterday my buddy came over and sanded the old rust and paint from my trailer. I picked up an epoxy primer and black paint.
Today I picked up a spokeshave that is semi circular in profile. The old pair of oars that came with the "Phoenix", my first drift boat purchase, they along with some floor boards and a seat are all that were worth saving. The oars are Douglas fir. My initial sanding has removed the beatup finish and dings. Because it is Doug Fir the difference in the hardness of the growth rings has resulted in oars that are no longer round in cross section. So sometime in between teaching fly fishing, painting the boat again, a little more sanding on the boat and the trailer, painting the trailer, packing for a week long trip I will refinish the oars. The weekend after the Festival I'll be tying steelhead flies at the Washington State Fly Fishing Fair, so I need to decide what to take and pack for that too. I hope to do some fishing while I'm on the road too.
Rick
PS thanks for the vote of confidence on the color and persistence. The pursuit of perfection is difficult and often never obtained. It is both a curse and a blessing, just depends on how far you take it. When you work with hurry up folks it can be a real curse.
Rick,
Sounds like you need a wife to set your priorities, like mine. I have a spokeshave like you described and never used it yet. It was in a box of hand tools I picked it up at an estate auction. Thanks for mentioning it. I've forgotten I had it & will have to dig it out and give it a try on my oars.
You a streamer, wet or dry tyer? sounds like something I'd like to attend, someday.
Enjoy the Festival,
Dorf
Friday's Update:
Went to order the axle and steel for the trailer this morning. I was pleasantly surprised the guys a Woodland Trailers made the axle for me while I waited. It only took about 30 mins to weld it up. Looking nice too. Here's a pic after got home with the steel and axle this morning.
.Here's a close up of the hub and spindle end. Under the black rubber cap (on left) is the grease zerk which is routed beyond the first bearing.
I managed to cut the stock for the trailer and laid it out to see what it's going to look like.
The axle was sanded and cleaned up and a two part automotive epoxy primer was brushed on. As were all the spring shackles and hardware.
Going to take off the weekend and maybe to some pondering on the moaning chair or go fishing.
With the rain we've gotten (about 10 inches the last two weeks) fishing is a long shot.
Oh well, hang in there.
Dorf
Looks awesome man!! Good work! I agree, fishing is a long shot!
Dorf, did the center drill the axle and then radially drill it to allow the grease to be distributed between the bearings? That's pretty cool, I would imagine that these spindles are retrofittable to older axles.
With your background in the automotive industry is Chip Foose going to provide you with a set of nice wheels or are you going to run a nice set of 24's? Whitewalls or not? Maybe some Red Line Radials?
Rick N
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