For those of you that have followed this long drawn out build of four plus years and for those new to new WBP site I finally painted my boat the "Challange" today. At least the first coat. Here's the starboard side after hours of sanding, filling, priming, sanding, guide coating, filling and sanding.Here's the port side after the same series of events.I studied the possible paint systems for quite a while and found an industrial two-part water borne alphatic polyurethane paint made by Comex. Comex is owned by Carlos Slim from Mexico, perhaps you've heard of him. Comex owns Parker Paints and if you visit a Parker Paints store you will see lots of Comex paints. Anyway a couple of years ago I had been looking for an alternative to varnish as I didn't want to have to repeat the process of painting, sanding, painting, etc every couple of years. I wanted to spray the finish I applied because I have not yet developed the talent of rolling and tipping as Phil mentioned to Guy. Most of my spraying started with a airless sprayer when I primed and sprayed my house several years ago. I liked getting the job done in just a few hours not days.
I also am concerned that Federal Regulations are seemingly tightening up on VOC's Volatile Organic Compounds those wonderful smells that many paints have from the solvent that carries the solids to the object being painted. I know that water-borne paints are getting better all the time and so looked in that direction.
For the interior parts of my boat that I finished last year I used a water-borne polyurethane from Woodcraft and had great luck.Again a lot of sanding but it is the finish I want. This is two coats if I remember right.
So by accident I stopped by Parker Paints and ran into the "Outside" sales rep that suggested that I might like U5000. The possible application by roller, brush or spray was handy. He opened a can and there was no odor. He brough over a sample of floor tile that had some applied and I hit it with a hammer and it didn't chip. The data sheet for the product listed high reisistance to impact and flexibility. I can provide those numbers if someone wants them. The price for a kit which ends up making up a gallon of finish was $90 or so. So far so good.
I bought some and stashed it in the garage. I was initially going to finish my boat with clear but over the course of four years a couple of incidents suggested to me that I might want to paint over the issues. Last fall I had a gallon of colored made up.
Today I applied it. I used about 1/3 of a gallon to cover the sides of the boat. Here's the boat porn for all you boat voyeurs! I will add another page of pictures as I have apparently reached a limit.
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Ditto what Dan said Rick!
Amazinglast minute effort. Now enjoy!!!
Awesome Rick!!! Ya did it!
Congratulations Rick! Awsome effort and it was worth it!
Enjoy, Dorf
Thanks everyone. Just a quick note of thanks for now. I appreciate all the nice compliments and thoughts both online and in person at the Festival. Bottom line, the Festival was great, was well attended and the weather was great. Thanks to Randy, Debbie, their staff and everyone elese that contributed to the day. I will write more later and post some pictures too.
Rick Newman
Rick, nice job, it looks great, and way to hang in there.
And don't feel bad about spending four years on one boat. I'm just entering my third year on a "simple" bottom replacement that I've been "just a week" from finishing since this time last year.
Speaking of which, what did you put on the bottom of the bottom of your boat? Just a coating? UHMW? Fiberglass?
Oh, and how about that retro PFD? I'm guessing late-80s vintage Extrasport. And it still fits!
Jack
Thanks for the wonderful comments. I am nothing else if not persistent. The 1/2" plywood on the bottom has 12 oz S-Glass triaxial weave laminated to the inside with a couple of coats of System III epoxy (standard) to fill the weave. It was a battle to bend to the contour of the boat. The plan is to apply DuraBack to the interior of the floor soon. I took a 100 pounds of tools and five ratchet straps to pull it down, I still had to place the 1" screws 1/2" apart to pull the floor down.
When I finished the outside of the floor I used 18 oz triaxial weave and several coats of Silvertip Epoxy with graphite. It is a solid floor.
That's actually a 1970's Extrasport and remarkably enough I can get it zipped up. I couldn't a year ago. Some rowing should help some more.
Rick Newman
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