Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
My wooden boat gets a make over.
Hello, my name is Steve. I live in Spokane Wash. I have owned what was represented when I bought it as a Don Hill 16 foot dryfly classic for over 20 years .This boat saw steady use and abuse for a good part of 15 years .For last 5 years or so the lack of care and proper storage caught up and here starts the work and brain damage. With the blessing of a wife of 30 plus years and a full blown wood shop cabinet shop it was time for a make over. After a lot of research and some phone calls I realized a professional restore wasn't cost effective to my budget. That's about when I found Wooden Boat Peoples site. What I didn't know was with the site came a blessing and what has turned out to be a good friend and boat mentor aka Rick Newman about 3 miles as the crow flies from my home and shop. This boat is a work in progress that is over due to start posting as its been going on now for about 3 plus months. With Ricks help, I hope to over the next couple of weeks to get caught up with text and pics. I have been so thankful for Rick and the posts on this site. The site is a wealth of not only knowledge but some truly friendly and gifted craftsman. I thank you ahead of time for any responses and suggestions as this is part of the learning curve.
The party starts and yes that's the plastic shoe hanging there.
Views: 3106
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kathys pics 10 30 2013 356.JPG, 2.1 MB
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by steve putnam on
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The bottom was then covered with a skim coat of silvertip epoxy. After it was dry I lightly sanded the bottom to 80 grit. This gave a good tooth for the glass cloth. Rick then applied 18 oz. triaxial cloth and silver tip epoxy to the bottom. We continued to add epoxy building up about 3 layers with light sanding between coats. At this time we skim coated the sides, transom and bow with epoxy. Rick then applied 6 oz. glass cloth to sides, transom and bow.
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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
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I used some spray adhesive to hold the cloth in place, that's what left the funny looking squiggly lines.
Rick N
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Permalink Reply by chris towles on
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Ha! Well no clear finish on that huh? The qwik fair blends really good tho huh...as its supposed to i suppose.
I remember reading that post on mrb phorum last year about using spray adhesive to tack the panel in place. I i ended up deciding not to do it after some research. Turns out if you wanna go this route you are better using a infusion glue which dissovles into the epoxy during the layup than a standard spray adhesive because as you can see, it does not dissovle into the lam. I dont think there would me too much bonding issues, but after messing up a vacuum layup recently and ending up with areas of unbonded core and being on a month long repair binge because of it, im alot more careful now. Like i said, i chose to avoid it. Best way i have found to do side layups is to drape the glass over the side and use bricks to hold it in position on the floor. I just position where i want it, use a sharpie to mark where to make the chine line cut, and then cut with scissors. If i am doing multiple layers, i can drape those on top and hold them with the same bricks. When its time to do the layup, i fold all the layers up and off the side onto the floor, with the bricks still holding them in place. Then you can do your bog on the substrate, fold down the first layer and wet it out, fold down the second layer and wet out, etc till you are all done. Once the glass is wet out it has no trouble sticking to the side panel. When you are done pull the bricks and let er cure
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When I laminate glass onto a vertical panel (aka boat side) I put a couple inches of glass up on the bottom and tape it in place .... draping the remainder of the glass down the side. I make up a batch of epoxy and pour it into a dish (often an old aluminum pie pan) load up a 1/8 foam roller and use that to apply it to the glass to wet it out. The plywood has been epoxy coated and sanded prior to this step so air escaping from the wood is not a problem and an epoxy starved lamination is avoided. Once wet out a squeegee can still be used to remove any excess epoxy.
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I certainly hope that nothing bad will come of the adhesive spray. Nothing was loose or in any way unusual. In the past I have done the tape method and it worked it well. I have never laminated more than one layer of fabric at a time but can appreciate the "brick" trick. Chris I saw your "fun" project on your blog site. I can appreciate the do over frustration that event provided. I had too many do-overs on my boats build. As I told Randy Dersham I felt that I built my boat four or five times! I gained a lot of sweat equity in boat building experience. The local hardware stores sold a lot of sandpaper!
Rick N
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Permalink Reply by tungsten on
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Looks like Rick was a graffiti artist in a former life...
couldn't resist!
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Well, I try to be an artist in somethings, but never a grafitti artist!
Rick N
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The boat was flipped over to begin interior restoration. I had already decided all the varnish would be removed and replaced with oil. I tried multiple strippers with very limited success. I finally settled on a heat gun and sharp scraper. This was by far, the most effective way for me and my boat. I believe I had about 30 hrs. with sanding in the varnish removal.
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With varnish removed I rubbed in 5 coats of Dalys Seafin Teak Oil with good results. Thank you Rick Newman again, I like this product. I own a cabinet - woodshop and will continue to find use for this oil. I had a repair to do in the transom area. The damage was at the top of the transom frame work. The plywood had started to separate and the rib had started to split. With some screws, epoxy and a little filler clamped up over night, I had a solid repair.
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Hey Steve, what kind of scraper did you like best?
Rick N
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Rick I tried a couple I had around the shop with marginal results. The one that really was the ticket I bought at Lowes called a 100x . It is a replaceable carbide bladed scraper. About 15.00 bucks, replaceable blade about 12.00 bucks.
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