First Timer: Starting my build

Started my build about a month ago. I'm building a 16ft Double ender with transom straight out of Fletchers book.  With this plans and instructions out of the book and the great information in this forum, how could you not be successful.  

Laid out the lines for the frames on an old piece of 3/4inch plywood and got started. I started making the frames out of 1 or better doug fir 2X4s at the local lumber yard.  It wasn't too hard working around all the knots to get good looking frames.  Just a little time consuming ripping them down to 1by and belt sanding, cus I don't have a planner. 

Building this has been a lot of fun and wanted to start sharing on this forum for future builders and the expert advice.  thanks

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Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 30, 2014 at 9:41pm

Tried to figure out the best way to cut the drain hole in the frames and figured out the hard way, this is what worked for me.  Tried making a guide for the router to follow and it didn't look good.  So used a drill and made a hole, then used a bit with a bearing and boom.  Works pretty good.

I'm further along in my build than my post.  I'll try to catch the post up to the build.  Just don't want to flood it with pictures.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 30, 2014 at 9:55pm

We've never had too any pictures! They are always enjoyable. Keep them coming.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 30, 2014 at 9:55pm

Couple of great reasons to build a drift boat.  Hard to get work done during steelhead season.

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 30, 2014 at 10:08pm

Frames together and coated in epoxy.  Been using Raka because of the price and the good reviews from everyone.  Glad I put the brace piece on them, just for the ease of painting and not epoxy all over my hands.  They also worked great for support, to prevent frame twist when bending the sides around them.  (A little foreshadowing)

Covered the screw holds with some wood putty I had laying around.  Didn't really like the look after I coated with epoxy.  Looks off color and dirty.  Next time I will have to use wood plugs.  Lucky me, I'm not a perfectionist.  More of a "We can fix it" Guy.

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 30, 2014 at 11:05pm

And theeeeen,  On to scarfing.  I got some sheets of DF marine grade ply from the lumber yard in John Day.  They stocked 1 sheet of 3/4" and 1 sheet of 1/2."  But just asked them to get me some and the next week I had 4 sheet of 1/4 and 2 sheets of 1/2.  Super helpful and quick.  

My first try at scarfing plywood. After much reading and youtube videos, I decided to try it with a belt sander.  I have used a belt sander a whole bunch and am very comfortable with it.  Mostly belt sander and a little orbital sanding for touch up.

This is the dry fit.  Then glued it up.  Had to make a hooch with a heater for the overnight curing.  The temp was getting down into the 30s at night.  And I didn't want to try to make room inside.  

 

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 1:18am

Had to add on a couple of inches to get the full 16' for the sides. got the sides cut out and sanded down together.  

Started the glassing of the inside with 4oz.  Didn't factor in that if you use the same sheet for both sides that only one side will have the good side of the plywood.  But as it turns out, I don't mind the dark stripe and imperfections in the plywood.  Just makes it look interesting.  Here's some glassing pics.

Before

After the wet out coat.  Put epoxy down a penetrating coat, then placed the glass, then the wet out.

 Here's the side all glasses and ready for assembly.

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 1:29am

Started putting everything together.  My stem post was made out of a DF 4X4.

Got the transom made by lamenting the left over 1/4" plywood and ripping more DF 2x4 for the frames.  Glassed the inside with some left over pieces of 4oz.  Should have just enough 4 oz left to glass the inside of the floor.

RACKED my brain on how to clamp just the odd numbered frames to the sides while everything was fiberglassed and epoxied.  So slick, got super frustrated and had to stop and drink beer.  Had to sleep on it.  It is definitely harder than everyone makes it look.  

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 1:45am

So after this post, you will be caught up and to date on my progress and the post won't all be in one night.

Got super frustrated, had to drowned my sorrows with PBR and came up with a plan.  Started by attaching the transom with 3 frames clamped in place.  Then starting from the middle, used a clamped piece of wood as a guide to stop the sliding around, tack in place, drill pilot holes, apply adhesive, screw in place.  This worked really well until I got to frame 8 and 9.  It was really tight, so I had to place both these frames together, to not put too much stress on one frame.  Luckily, this worked.

Transom in place.

Frames going into place.

And got all the frames in and it looks like a boat. 

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 1:48am

So this is where I stand now.  Got the chine logs scarfed and epoxied.  Thats the next big task.  Still have to scarf the plywood for the floor and fiberglass.  I have one more week till I have to go back to work.  I'm a seasonal firefighter, so boat work will slow down.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 31, 2014 at 7:40am

Clay, a great set of photos, you have been working hard! You will soon be out catching even more steelhead, not to mention enjoying rrowing on the rivers with a very maneuverable, enjoyable boat! Kepp us posted and thanks for the pictures.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by John Ahlbin on March 31, 2014 at 8:33am

Clay, I too am building a double ender w/transom. You are way ahead of me with your boat, I just joined two full sheets of 1/4" ply for the sides. You mentioned that you had challenges installing some of the last ribs. In retrospect, would installing the transom earlier have helped to install the ribs. I am contemplating connecting the stem to both sides then the #5 rib with clamps only then installing the transom before the remaining ribs. Do you think that this will make any difference in the frustration level?

 

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 11:51am

Rick,

Thanks for the encouraging words. Can't wait to get this thing out for some steelhead fun.  Don't think I'm fast enough for this year,  but plenty of small mouth fun on the John Day this summer. 

John,

I think in retrospect. That is exactly what i would do.  In Fletcher's book, he says to temporarily put in place all odd numbered frames.  My frustration was trying to clamp all those, with moving and slipping. I had frame #5 and #7 clamped with #3 marginally clamped when I installed the transom.  Then went back and started 5200 and screwing with frame: #6, #4, #5, #3, #7, #2, #8 and #9 together, then #1.   #8 and #9 that were tight going in weren't that big of a deal.  

The best advice if you don't have a lot of people helping you is the guide.  Clamping a piece of 1by that extends past the chine and sheer lines on both sides, spaced the thickness of your frames off your line.  This helps to keep down the sliding, especially when you have 5200 on the frames and get into the more aggressive angles.

I'm sure there are more people that could answer your question with an explanation better, but this is what I learned so far.  The "Clay Way" and the "Right Way" don't always align, but they do intercept periodically for short periods of time.  

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