First Timer: Starting my build

Started my build about a month ago. I'm building a 16ft Double ender with transom straight out of Fletchers book.  With this plans and instructions out of the book and the great information in this forum, how could you not be successful.  

Laid out the lines for the frames on an old piece of 3/4inch plywood and got started. I started making the frames out of 1 or better doug fir 2X4s at the local lumber yard.  It wasn't too hard working around all the knots to get good looking frames.  Just a little time consuming ripping them down to 1by and belt sanding, cus I don't have a planner. 

Building this has been a lot of fun and wanted to start sharing on this forum for future builders and the expert advice.  thanks

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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on March 31, 2014 at 1:38pm

My question would be why use the 5200? The nails or screws you use will hold them in place. The tension of the plywood will prevent most movement and the chine log and the gunwales will hold the top in place as they will be bolted. The only place many of use use 5200 is to fasten the bottom of the ribs to the floor when you nail or screw it down. I and others use a polysulfide compound like Boat Life's Boat Caulk when we put screws into the wood or to bed other fittings where we want to prevent water intrusion in to your plywood. There is a debate on whether to even glue the sides with anything. I didn't use anything and my boat is fine. The strength of your boat's sides comes from the total assembly.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on March 31, 2014 at 2:01pm

Hey Guys,

I use epoxy to glue my frames but have used 5200  for sealing for Robb Grubb's watertight compartments (that sucked!). The method I use is glue the stem and one side of the transom. Bend around a temporarily clamped #5 rib and glue the other side of the transom. Then temporarily clamp all of the ribs in. This gives the boat its shape making each rib easier to install plus you can take one out without changing the shape of the hull in case you have one in backwards or in the wrong spot. I glue & them in one at a time. I use pieces of scrap plywood on each side of the rib to hold it in place so it does not squirm around with the glue on it.

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 3:23pm

Rick does bring up a good point.  I seem to be brought up by the opposite vision (not currently still in it perhaps).  My dad owned and worked on a lot of repairs of large sailboats on the Gulf Coast, and there was no such thing as too much sealant or adhesive.  But when you're trying to make something look nice.  It's close to impossible.

Mike, I like the scrapes used to hold it in place.  I used a similar technique with 1" on one side of the frame.  (Didn't get a picture)  Just have to be careful as not to glue them in place in the process.

5200 does suck to work with, no way around it.

During floor instillation does it help to tape off the frames and chine to help with clean up down the sides at all?  Or does it just make a bigger mess?  I've been thinking about this.

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on March 31, 2014 at 5:45pm

I think taping is worth it. Time wise it is probably a wash cuz it takes a while to tape all that off but it is more pleasant of a clean up. I think it is easier to clean if you wait until the next day as well. It will have a little more body to it and won't smear quite as bad. The exception is if you have a fir bottom with no epoxy on it as the 5200 will stain the wood.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 7:36pm

Awesome, Thanks Mike.  I'll try to tape it off.  I've got a Fir bottom, but it's gonna have fiberglass on the inside before I install it.

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on March 31, 2014 at 7:49pm

So, today I got the chine logs in.  Luckily, everything went fairly smooth.  They are clear DF as well ripped down to 5/8ths.  

Question, How do you install them bow to stern or stern to bow?  I did it bow to stern and they would not go in because both ends are tapered out.  I ended up cutting the back then plugging it back in.  Probably not very great, but you cant see it cus it's behind the transom frame.  I'm sure someone has a tip for this.

Going to wait overnight to clean this up.  Still got a little time so I started scarfing the plywood for the floor.

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on April 4, 2014 at 7:37am

Im with rick. scrap the 5200 up the frames. not needed. jus tmakes amessy interior.  On my latets build and ll previous builds, I have not taped off anything.  when doing the bottom, I temporary screw it down, then unscrew half of it.  Prop up th eunscrewed side in the air, lay down a bead of 5200, then take a stick and spread it.  carefully un prop the end and screw it down temporary, then commence to nail it in place.  repeat on the other half.  Zero cleanup and just enough light squeeze out to know you have a good seal.

 

Build looks good.  You are making good progress. I built this boat three times now, One thing I did not do on the last two was temorary clamp frames.  I went straight to nailing them in. Attached the stem, transom to the hull sides, then fit the middle frame in, nail it down.  then place alternating frames in two at a time.    helps keep that hull more rigid as it takes shape.

 

Good luck.

 

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on April 4, 2014 at 5:27pm

Dave,

Thanks for the tip, I like the idea of drilling all the countersunk/pilot holes first then lifting one side at a time and putting the 5200 down.  Seems like you would have a lot more control that way.

I also agree with no temporary clamping of the frames.  Just a head ache, especially when you have already covered the frames in epoxy and fiberglassed the inside.  I am using DF, so didn't want any checking of the plywood later on.

Thanks for the great tip.

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on April 12, 2014 at 8:47pm

Got the bottom on this weekend. 

i did end up taping the frames and the chine.  It did help a little in the clean up.  But its still a pain.

My handy little scribing tool.  Not too pretty but it worked with finding the chine, then used it again for trimming the edge up a bit.  Planning on sanding the rest down to make a sharp edge.

There she is.

I used a ratchet strap to bring down the bow.  It was pretty tight.  Think I'll leave it on for the week till everything sets up nicely.  Work really gets in the way of boat building.  I'm reduced to weekends now, but it is getting warmer.  So fiberglassing outside shouldn't be an issue.

Permalink Reply by Clay W. on April 12, 2014 at 8:50pm

Does anybody know a supplier for white oak for my outside chines and handrails in Bend, OR.  I'm gonna be in Redmond for the week in training and would love if I can just pick some up.

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on April 13, 2014 at 5:20am

Boat's looking great Chris.  I would call either Miller Lumber (Redmond and Bend) or Parr Lumber down there and pre-order some.  I'm sure they can both get White Oak from Lumber Products or Disdero (one of those two has gone out of business I think).  Or . . . if that doesn't work out I know Tum-A-Lum (Pendleton, The Dalles, and Hood River) can as that's where I get mine.  But, they don't typically stock it.

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on April 13, 2014 at 8:01am

Clay,

I am in Bend and the only place I know to get white oak is Hardwood industries on American lane. It is all rough sawn lumber. They do offer planning and ripping services as well.

Mike

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