Wooden Boat People

By McKenzieDriftBoat.com

Oars 2014 - Thoughts

My fishing buddy is going to purchase the oars for the new boat.

It looks like I am at about 67-69" from oar lock to oar lock on this ~16" Don Hill - so it sounds like consensus is 9' oars.

What are your thoughts on top oars in 2014? I don't want my buddy to break the bank, so maybe a wish list of:

1) top performer at any price oars,

2) best mid-priced value oars,

3) decent value oars

4) spare oars (1 piece, 2 piece, 3 piece I get the debate for 1 piece but the space...)

I am okay with wood, composite, or a mix of the two like the Sawyer MXS.

I am going to Montana end of June with the new boat - so feedback please boys as we gotta get these things ordered!!!!!

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Mark Stuberr on May 16, 2014 at 7:35pm

http://www.riverswest.org/uploads/1/6/4/3/16435358/pete_culler_oars...

These or a variation of these are going to be my jam from now on. Cheep (depending on the wood) and relatively easy to make. Im changing up the blade design a bit and adding composite reinforcement, but the construction is the same or similar. I can make a set in eight to ten hours, depending.

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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on May 16, 2014 at 8:09pm

GD,

If your going with 9 ft. oars, that'll more than likely be a special order for anyone out there. Most in-stock oars run 8'-6" max. You might end up with a delivery problem. Check out Shaw & Tenney's website. They have a lot of good info about oars, advertise a 2-3 delivery BUT they aren't inexpensive. One point they make is, Ash is preferred for Drift Boats, heavier but stronger. Depending on where you plan to float this may be an issue.

I suppose there a lot of guys on this site and others that'll say Doug Fir and other softwoods are OK. Maybe they'll come foreword and share their experiences.

I'd think you might want to consider making them. It's not rocket science. Mark's response is a good way to go. Good basic information. I made two and am in the process of making a third (spare). I added two coats epoxy on the blades and shafts. The handles will be oiled ( I don't like blisters). with a couple of coats of varnish they'll hold up and price is right!

G'Luck,

Dorf

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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on May 17, 2014 at 5:18am

Gopher: Good advice/info from Mark and Dorf. If you can build a DB you can build a set of oars. I have done 5 pairs that are still in use in WA,MT,and MA. Ash if hitting big water but Doug Fir/Spruce for more moderate waters. Leaving for Cape Cod for the summer- the island has no electricity- so this will be it for a while.

Good Luck

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Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on May 18, 2014 at 3:54pm

Dan,

I have at least one, if not 3 pairs of each listed below. They all serve their purpose and are great oars for different types of water:

_ http://www.pelco.co.nz/oars.htm (Gull oars are a good class 1 to light 3 oar)

_ http://www.paddlesandoars.com/ (Sawyers are a NW staple, spendy but a good all around oar)

_ http://www.barkleysoundoar.com/Product.htm#products (This oar is my favorite, light and tough)

I would suggest that your spare be the same oar and match your others, and as Dorf says, however they show up, sand off the varnish on the handles and just oil them. It will be better for your hands in the long run.

Cheers, Robb

www.RiverTraining.net

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Permalink Reply by lhedrick on June 11, 2014 at 9:24am

People rowing drift boats often run around 9 foot oars. I run 9.5, I have friends who use 10 foot oars. Rafters will go out to 11. So you won't have any trouble finding the length you want.

I will tell you not to take my advise or anyone else's. Oar materials, oar locks setups and oar lengths make the debates of democrats V republicans look tame. My suggestion is to borrow different oars, rent some, do what ever you need to do to try many, because you won't like what everyone else rows.