Hi everyone, I'm just getting started.  I've gathered all the tools, read Fletcher's book about 6 times (so great), and read quite a lot of these posts (also great).  I've decided to build a 17x54.  Went to the lumber dealer in town, and decided i'm definitely going to use the Hydrotek BS 1088 6mm for sides, and 12mm for floor.  I'm going to use Mahogany for the Stem.  I'm planning to use Port Orford Cedar for the frames, and was thinking i'd match that with White Oak for the rails/chines.  I hope to have the boat for the rest of my life, and while i want it to be the most beautiful boat ever built, I truly want to use materials that will last and be effective.  So, first question... Instead of White Oak, anyone ever use Port Orford for rails?  It seems like the color would be similar to White Oak, but i wonder about durability as a rail.  appreciate any insight you might have.

Views: 10530

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

The depth was the main prob on the offending notches.  I used a scrap of the chine, wrapped in 120 grit, and my fingers.  Slowly sanded and checked repeatedly.   Sore fingers.

That boat has such nice lines.

ok, i've got a problem.  I epoxied the bare 1/2" plywood with a sealing coat of silver tip.  Let it cure, then sanded smooth.  I just laid fiberglass, then as I was wetting out the fiberglass, unbeknownst to me the epoxy in my container had begun to harden and I poured it on the fiberglass and couldn't really trowel it out.  The outcome was that this section didn't get properly "wet out".  The epoxy kinda sat on top without fully wetting the fiberglass.  My plan is to continue with "fill coats" on the rest of it... every hour or two to add a couple more coats. 

Will i be able to fix this later? 

In this case a heat gun will be your friend. That and a sharp putty knife or scraper. Heat, scrape, remove and repeat. Fix it right now and reduce your frustration. Sandpaper is also useful in this case to re-prepare the surface for a new coating of epoxy.

By the time I re-did the errors or opportunities for learning I worked throguh I felt like I had built my boat four or five time. Visit my page and see what I am talking about.

Rick Newman

Thanks Rick,

Does it just re-wet it, and I'll be able to scrape down to the fiberglass?

Essentially, then scrape it off. Lots of fun but better than sandpaper.

Rick

Hi Dusty,

You may have to replace the fiberglass.

I built my dory in a cold shop last winter and had to pre-warm my epoxy so it would wet out the glass.

I warmed one batch too much and dumped it on my boat just as it was cooking off. I never got those spots clear.

Glass is white when dry because of the air surrounding the fibers and all the exposed surfaces of each glass fiber refracts light. It gets clear when wet-out because the epoxy replaces the air, and the refractive index of the epoxy and glass are similar enough that the glass disappears. The only exposed surface is the face of the epoxy.

If your glass is not clear, you have trapped air.

You have ONE shot with a heat gun if your shop is cool enough that the epoxy is not fully cured. Wear a respirator and heat it up. Squeegee it with a stiff plastic scraper and see if you can trowel the air bubbles out. The epoxy will kick even faster than before.

If the epoxy is already rubbery when heated, it’s too late. Either heat and peel, or sand, or live with it.

I have some spots I chose to live with. I can show you via IM.

Shawn

What he said!

Rick N

I think that's exactly what happened, heated the epoxy too much.  

I'm deliberating.  It is the inside bottom of the boat, and I could easily coat it with some opaque finish.  I may do that.  

Here's what it looks like:

That would definitely work.

Want some more bad news?  When I pre-glassed the inside of my side panels, and then bent them into the boat, the glass on the inside of the bend "popped" in some places along the weave.  I don't know if that was because I didn't let it cure enough, or because the Grand Canyon dory has a lot of inside bend, or because I had 2 layers of 6oz glass..but it happened.

So..if that happens inside your floor, you may end up painting anyway.

(upper right side of the photo)

Do you think that I will be prone to some sort of failure with the epoxy as time goes on?  I'm imagining the air pocket, and expansion or whatever.  

RSS

© 2024   Created by Randy Dersham.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service