Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project
Hello Everyone,
My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum. I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.
In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses. I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book. I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom. At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.
Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom. I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials. Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood? I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.
I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).
Thank you, Guy
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on
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Transom all sealed and patched.
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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
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Macbeath in SLC used to be a good source.
Rick
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Thanks Rick. I didn’t know about them. I called and they have what I need. They may very well be my best source.
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MacBeth Lumber in Salt Lake City. Great resource.
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Glad to hear it worked out!
Rick
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It did. Thanks for the information Rick.
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I guess hanging out on the web and in the woodshop since 2010 has helped out!
Rick
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Chris Craft. This is a Chevy 283 engine from a 1959 Chris Craft 17-ft Sportsman. It has 385 hours on it but probably hasn’t been running in 20 to 30 years. I’m thinking of using the block on my 1961 Chris Craft 17-ft ski boat. I’m in the process of trying to free the pistons with vinegar which is supposed to dissolve the rust.
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Guy, one of the other web sites I hang out on; woodenboatforum.com is an excellent source of knowledge for all thing wooden boat, diesel and gasoline boat engines and much more. I remembered a few posts on using molasses to remove rust. I didn't look there but googled removing rust with molasses and found the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dzlE9-9DVE
The guy that runs this site does a variety of interesting experiments related automotive and engines in general. Everything I have viewed of his has been done well and quite scientific in nature.
He tests a variety of solutions to remove rust. I will let you make your own decisions!
Rick
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Thanks Rick. I’ll check that out. The vinegar was recommended to me by the owner of Performance Automotive in Idaho Falls, ID. I Google that and found the scientific basis for the chemistry. Rusted iron in contact with aluminum in a weak acid solution is supposed to reduce the iron oxide to iron.
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Good luck, maybe an experiment with molasses in a couple of cylinders and vinegar in the others?
Rick
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Bubbles are a good sign that it’s working.
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