First build

Hi everyone, I'm just getting started.  I've gathered all the tools, read Fletcher's book about 6 times (so great), and read quite a lot of these posts (also great).  I've decided to build a 17x54.  Went to the lumber dealer in town, and decided i'm definitely going to use the Hydrotek BS 1088 6mm for sides, and 12mm for floor.  I'm going to use Mahogany for the Stem.  I'm planning to use Port Orford Cedar for the frames, and was thinking i'd match that with White Oak for the rails/chines.  I hope to have the boat for the rest of my life, and while i want it to be the most beautiful boat ever built, I truly want to use materials that will last and be effective.  So, first question... Instead of White Oak, anyone ever use Port Orford for rails?  It seems like the color would be similar to White Oak, but i wonder about durability as a rail.  appreciate any insight you might have.

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Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on January 20, 2021 at 8:21pm
I’d be hesitant to pull it hard with a deep clamp if the panel is fair. You’ll make a flat spot.

If it’s already glued and the other side is touching, go for the shim.
Permalink Reply by Dusty on January 21, 2021 at 9:07am

What if I taped it off and put a fine tip on a tube of 5200 and squeezed it in there.  Would that be enough support?  in lieu of a shim?

Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on January 21, 2021 at 9:43am

That's a great idea...and 5200 is resilient enough that it won't pull the panel out of fair.

Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on January 22, 2021 at 7:14pm

Didn’t think about the far side touching. Also didn’t realize it was epoxied as well. Clamping would just crush the ply. 5200 and just do a good cleanup job sounds like a great solution

Permalink Reply by James Prepura on January 20, 2021 at 1:15pm
Could it be where the gunnel is attached to the side panel and its natural tendency is to straighten out pulling the side away, that’s what it looks like it’s doing I would clamp the gunnel at that rib like you would have a carriage bolt through it when you put the inner gunnel on and see if it pulls it back together “just a thought”
Permalink Reply by Dusty on January 21, 2021 at 9:06am

That's a good thought James, that happened on a different frame a tiny bit at the top.  I just should have beveled it better.  I actually  thought that it might tighten up when I put the Gunnel on, but it didn't move a muscle.  

Permalink Reply by James Prepura on January 21, 2021 at 2:09pm
Well you can cut a shim on the table saw from a scrap piece of the same lumber and sand it till it fits and epoxy it to the rib but you know as well as anyone you have to cut through the fasteners on the side panel or you can take your time with a Japanese fine tooth saw and slip it in between the rib and panel an take off the high side of the rib but fitting a shim is probably your best bet good luck but it still looks awesome
Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on January 21, 2021 at 2:26pm

^^^
This would be a great way to fill the gap.

and like James said, still looks awesome Dusty.  We as builders stress more about things like this than anyone else looking at the boat. 

Wanna hear a secret?  I beveled the foot of my stem too narrow...and it has shims.  Fortunately I didn't throw the offcuts away.  Grain doesn't match perfectly because the shavings would have been hard to match up! haha

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on January 21, 2021 at 3:59pm

In my older Tatman the frame/ribs have aged and moved away from the side panels. Ring shank nails and glue? what kind I don't remember. So my point is the structure is made up of skin, frame members, inner chine, gunwale and tension between the parts. In the long term I think that while unsightly the boat will be fine. Don't we all want our boats to be perfect!

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Dusty on February 5, 2021 at 10:35am

I need help again. 

Drilling the holes through the rails/frames for the carriage bolt.  I'm smart enough to know that I shouldn't wing this.  Which is my go to method.  I'm also smart enough to start drilling in the right place, but not confident at all about the bit coming out at the right place on the other side.

I haven't found many results searching in here for a jig to drill the hole perfectly perpendicular.   Do any of you have a method you recommend?  

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 5, 2021 at 11:18am

Check out the jig that Guy Fredrickson built! Mike Baker also places two top frame "parts" on or near the bow of his boats. Then he is guaranteed to drill through wood and not air.

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on February 5, 2021 at 1:05pm

http://woodenboatpeople.org/xn/detail/1312281:Comment:230866

Ingenious.
One could even drill 1/4"-1/2" from the inside and insert a steel or brass rod to index where you want the bit to come out...then drill from the outside and you should be able to push that rod out in front of the bit.

Rick, I'm not quite visualizing what you mean about the top frame "parts"?

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