Hello Everyone,
My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum. I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.
In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses. I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book. I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom. At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.
Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom. I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials. Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood? I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.
I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).
Thank you, Guy
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Martinac. The port side fiberglass is epoxied. It took me about 2.5 hours once I started. I mixed small batches of epoxy about 10 oz. at a time in a plastic drink cup. I’d pour out the epoxy and work it into the fiberglass with a small plastic squeegee and my gloved hands. I would apply a generous layer and let it soak into the fabric which takes time. No need to rush. Just don’t let the epoxy stay in the cup too long or it will kick. I used about a gallon of epoxy to saturate the cloth. About half way done in the first picture. Finished in the second picture.
Martinac. I pulled some of the tape off the bottom to inspect how well the holes filled with epoxy. Many, but not all of them, filled all the way to the tape. Some are only partially filled with epoxy. I’ll have to fill the holes from the bottom too.
Martinac. The two outermost bottom stringers have a twist at the bow ends. Not much, but definitely a twist. I’m going to clamp a board for a few days to see if some of the clamping force relaxes. Otherwise I may have to steam some of the boards. The bottom stringers toward the back of the boat lay flat. No problem there.
Martinac. I prepared all the bottom stringers for the port and starboard sides. I started installing the stringers on the port side. I decided to attach the stringers with silicon bronze 1/4-20 carriage bolts with the head on the outside hull. (This rather than wood screws driven from the outside of the hull.) I’ll bed the stringers in 3M 5200. And I’ll apply the 5200 to the bolts as they are installed.
What is light sanding, is that less than two or three hours of your time?:<) Your repair is looking good!
Rick
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