Ok I'm getting more serious about building my drifter. After researching I'm trying to decide between a kit or buying plans and building off the plans. Anyone out there built off plans only? Ive looked at Don Hills website along with Montana boat builders and a couple of others n the web. I'm pretty handy with tools being in the construction trade for over 30 years with seven of them as a carpenter. I also build bamboo fly rods and have a workshop full of tools. So any thoughts out there concerning plans only vs a kit? All input appreciated.
Mark

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You don't need a kit if you can handle a few tools. All you need to start is 4 sheets of plywood 6 gallons of epoxy fiber glass and fillers to get started. Great plans are available at montana-riverboats.com. It will take you about 2500.00 to get it done.

The scarf joint is the only thing you will need to learn to do and it's not hard. You just need a sharp hand plane.

Dude,,,,,, if you can build a cane rod you don't need no stinkn' kit.
If you reap enormous satisfactions from creating your own drifter then a scratch built boat from a set of plans can do that for you. On the other hand, if you enjoy the process of building and assembling but don’t have the time, or don’t want the hassle of collecting material and milling everything to necessary dimensions, then a kit built boat will address that issue. Dollar costs for a scratch built boat will probably be less. However, when you add the costs of your time for a scratch built craft (collecting materials, forming the component parts, assembling, and occasionally forgetting to measure twice and cut but once, etc), the actual costs between the two kinds of construction may reach parity. And then also, there is the restoration group: those who like to find a fairly sound oldy, restore it to useable and mint condition, and thus sustain a the sense of history that is tied to these boats. There are people on this forum who have done it each way. Here’s hoping they chime in. Regardless which way you go you have a cadre of interested people here who will cheer you on -- and even offer advice if needed.
Roger
I would like to find an oldy and do a resto on it. I have been restoring old bamboo fly rods for almost 30 years and would love to keep the history alive on a old drift boat. There was a guy in town selling a older boat he said was a Bob Prichartt. He restored it himself and you couldn't see under the new paint if it wasen't mostly bondo, so I passed.
Mark
Mark, a Pritchett boat is a real piece of history. Bob painted most of his boats so it is keeping with history to paint a Pritchett. I wouldn't worry about bondo or fairing. If anything is loose you can sand it clean and work from there.

You do want to use an awl or small screwdriver and test for rot along the chine and bottom frames on the inside. That chine log and, all attached to it, is the foundation of your boat. If it is solid then I'd vote that this boat might be the right one for you if the price is right. It is likely that you won't save a dime; you might even spend a little more money in the long run starting with a historical boat. But you will have the satisfaction of knowing you saved a piece of history and that you are rowing a boat that has been owned by others before you and will likely be rowed by others long after you are no longer able to be on the water.

Since you live there on the Rogue in Grants Pass I can't think of a better boat for you to restore than a Pritchett.
I am just completing a scratch built boat and probably saved a bit of money over a kit. I certainly learned a lot but I guess my comment would be that a kit boat probably comes out more perfect because you will make a mistake here and there when you are working off plans (or at least I did). On the other hand it was a kick to figure things out and the boat ends up being a one off. Either way it is a kick.
As a boat kit provider I have to point out a couple of very obvious benefits of the kit. A person that has never built a boat before can do so quickly and with confidence that the finished product is a proven performer. All the hardware, lumber plywood, and epoxy is furnished. The builder can talk with a pro about making the decision of what boat to build to match the water they are on the most often and then get to work quickly with pre-cut materials rather than do research. Daniel Paull, one of our site members, finish THIS BOAT in about six weeks. He and his son did a fantastic job. The kit sells for $2,480.00 so your numbers are about right on and we make our margin by buying materials wholesale and usually in bulk.. A kit might be about even or just a little more than a first time boat builder purchasing all of their own material of equal quality.

There are three other things that we provide in our kits that most home builders will not do. A wavy scarf, a tapered stem, and frames with a helix profile. Here is the long winded explanation. We are framed boat kit providers. Framed boats have some specific advantages for white water fishing. They are light weight, have a low center of gravity, and the frames make a very stiff boat with an open interior that can be outfitted a number of ways. An owner can even stack up to three on a single trailer which the pro guides sometimes do when guiding larger groups. Framed boats can be built using the free-form method of building where the frame is the strongback. It is a very time efficient method of building. Most plans for free-form built boats do not taper the stem or helix the frame profiles. Boat building methods that are older than the free-form method would have the builder build a strongback, fit the boats sides, and bottom, then flip the boat and SCRIBE FIT in the stem and frames to the finished boat shape. One of the benefits of using computer aided design and a CNC router is we can "scribe" the stem and frames to the boat in the computer then cut them to shape with the CNC. The person that buys the kit gets the time savings of the free-form boat building method with the tradition and fair lines of traditional strongback building. The wavy scarf is simply a CNC scarf method that is proven to be very strong and is easy for new builders to make sure the boat is square. There is no big advantage or disadvantage over cutting their own feather scarf but the wavy scarf is a unique and attractive look.

I agree with Roger that there are a number of reasons that people decide to build a boat. A kit is sometimes the right answer, especially for the first time boat builder. There are other times that the research about design, techniques and materials are part of the adventure.

Mark, you ask a great question. That's why I started this site... so we can all benefit from the experience of folks that have tread the path before us. I recommend you jump into the world of boat building in the place that accomplishes your goals. You could build a boat from the historical information that Roger has provided in his book, Drift Boats and River Dories, you could do more research and branch out with your own design or a historic replica like Kevin C or like many before you the kit option is available from more people than just me. If you are an insane romantic (like I am) you could buy an old boat that needs a lot of love.

Pick your spot and jump in. We're here to support you.
Randy, when you say helix profile are you saying that the frames actually have a curve cut in their shape? I am going to pick up one of your kits from a gentleman in Gellingham that has chosen not to finish his. A 6.5 x 48 in Meranti. I am very excited! I have repairs to do on the previously purchased boat and trailer so that some else can enjoy it. Currently we have cold temps, a too, full garage and fresh snow on the ground but I am very motivated to continue to clean the garage and sell old possessions to get the room and the money needed to finish the kit. thanks again for your work on the blog. It is a valuable resource for everyone involved.

Rick Newman
I am currently building one of Randy's kits... and I will say that as an inexperienced woodworker/builder this was the ideal choice for me. I feel much more confident having worked from a kit on my first build. It definitely makes the process much clearer for a first timer. If I were to build a boat from plans down the road, I would feel more comfortable with that task - having done the kit first. Probably once I have shop space and all the necessary tools I will give a "from scratch" build a go... but make no mistake, there is much work to be done, and the satisfaction is there when constructing a boat from pre-cut lumber. Maybe my opinion will change down the road if I should build one from scratch...

Just my .02
I had no idea what I was doing when I brought 6 sheets of ply home, 250 zip ties, a couple rolls of fiberglass and enough epoxy to fill my garage. No one had faith in my boat building skills as I had never done it before. " A drift boat is such a simple shape to create with plywood, I kept telling myself" You have 100 times more woodworking skills than I, so I think you would have no problems creating a boat from scratch. If you are more the perfectionist type maybe a kit boat is a better idea. My boats name will be "Almost" as it is not perfect in any way. Now that my boat is nearly done I was glad I didn't choose to build a kit boat. It is very satisfying to say you built your boat from scratch. And there will not be another one out there like it!! I used a friends lowside clacka to get some general measurements, a how to build a kayak stitch and glue style, and went from there. Some liquid courage also helped this project along as well. It has not been on water yet so I may be taking all this back in a few weeks!
I almost went the kit route years ago. What turned me away was the initial investment and where I live. It would have cost $400 plus to ship a kit here. A kit was $2800 or so. So.. I'd have 3200 into a kit, with no oars, trailer, and no epoxy, glue, anchor system...etc... It added up to be alot. So, I decided to build it in pieces from scratch.

I actually never wanted a wood boat. I wanted a drift boat. period. I started looking around and man, glass boats were pricey! So I started looking at kits. the I found Roger's site with plans. I bought the plans, and thought, If it looks like too much, then I'm only out 50 bucks. As soon as I looke dat th eplans, I knew it was the right choice.

I bought a load of Douglas Fir, built a frame set.
Got some rough cut ash and white oak and planed a stem.
Purchased plywood. After some time, I had a boat. When I added up the material costs- 1500 dollars.
Found a used Hyde driftboat trailer for 750. So I was into a drift boat for far less than I would have been.

I had the woodworking skills to accomplish the task, and thorugh forums like this and montana riverboats, I got through it, made a bunch of friends.

If I was able to afford a kit, I would have bought one. But I'm a do-it-yourselfer on a budget 99% of the time. Buidling from scratch was worth a shot.

Anyone who has built a set of frames has a whole appreciation for it. I like the fact that my boats are all mine. Every piece of making them I did myself.

As a consumer buying retail lumber, I'd say thats the hardest part- locating good enough wood. All of the pictures of boats I have seen made from Tatman's kits look premium in the lumber department. That may be worth a kit alone. Not having the proper tools would be reason number one to buy a kit.

I'm on my third scratch boat. I have puchased everything for it, including oarlocks, anchor release, glass, epoxy, varnish and oil. Total price is 1531.11 I am 43 hours into it. This weekend is final assembly.

see progress at: www.thtchronicles.blogspot.com

Oh, and NEVER rush your boat project!!!! You will miss it! After I finish a boat, I go through withdrawl- my hands are healed up but my lungs crave the sawdust. You'll find yourself sitting in your drift boat drinkin a beer or two each night following completion.
I'm a very low budget guy. I only build when I have a few dollars and rip 2X4 fir to keep my cost as low as possible. No marine plywood either. My goal in 450 dollars total - not including oars and hardware. I built a sea kayak 12 years ago and finished it with epoxy and it is still in great shape after 200 plus day on the coast of Maine.

Where can I get oar locks and sockets that are not 'yacht' quailty and priced?

Den in New Hampshire
Oars and locks are not something to skimp on Den, the last thing you want happening is a cheap oar or lock breaking in the middle of a rapid, very ugly things can happen including sinking your boat. I use NRS locks and Sawyer Smoker Whitewater oars on my boats.

I'm not sure what you mean by sockets? On most of the wood driftboats out west we just have a wood block bolted between the gunnel's and bore a hole in it the size of the plastic bushing that the oarlock rides in. Is this what you mean?

Mike

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