Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project
Hello Everyone,
My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum. I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.
In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses. I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book. I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom. At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.
Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom. I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials. Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood? I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.
I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).
Thank you, Guy
Views: 105402
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on
-
I finished sanding the bottom with 60-grit, the result is shown in the pictures. Next I'm going to fiberglass and epoxy the transom, and apply an additional layer of fiberglass to the stem (extanding about 6 inches to either side of the stem). When that is done, I'm going to apply a few more layers of epoxy to the bottom and add graphite powder to the last few layers. Then it will be time to install the chine caps. Once that's done, I think it will be time to roll the boat and start on the inside.
-
Permalink Reply by Lee E Washburn on
-
Thanks Guy Your doing great, glad you went with 60 grit . way not go all the way with graphite on your next layers? just my two cents/ I painted and coated, built and repaired wood boats for over 50 years. when your start on interior of your vessel think LITE. you have over built todate. and you will mostlikey be glad you did. It will get ya through the rock gardens. and log jams. your workman ship is overboard for a river boat. there beautiful thinks BOATS LEE
-
-
Hi Lee. The reason that I sanded the bottom is because I'm still deciding what to do next and I wanted to keep my options open. I may apply a strip of fiberglass over the bottom edge, to cover the seam area between the side panels and the bottom. I may skip that step and apply the chine logs, and then apply additional layers of epoxy (and epoxy mixed with graphite) to the bottom and over the bottom surfaces of the chine logs all at once. Anyway, I still have some decisions to make.
For the inside, I plan to deck the floor and install pedistal seating. I will probably install a fly-line deck in the front.
Guy
-
Permalink Reply by Dave Barnes on
-
I recommend side storage compartments/platforms like pictured..
- Attachments:
-
-
IMAG0348.jpg, 1.2 MB
-
-
-
Today I am fiberglassing and epoxying the transom (10 oz.) and adding an extra layer over the stem (22 oz.)
-
-
I just put a scale under the front and back of the boat.
The front is 140 lbs.
The back is 160 lbs.
Total weight is 300 lbs.
Of course my boat is not finished, but the "hull" is nearly finished.
That's not much different from the "hull weights" of the drift boats produced by Hyde, which range from 275 to 305 lbs. Clarkacraft drift boats weigh upward of +300 lbs.
I think my drift boat is still a contender at 16' 3'' at the centerline, 56'' at the bottom, and 76'' at the oarlocks.
-
Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on
-
Guy,
Here's a link to another web site forum of boat builders. The post is on Painting Epoxy, should be interesting reading as you are not too far away from painting your boat.
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/materials/priming-painting-epoxy-4...
Hope this helps.
phil w.
-
-
Phil,
Thanks. That was good information to read through.
Once I roll the boat, I probably have another couple of months work on the inside. But at some point, I can probably paint the outside while I'm working on the inside.
Guy
-
-
Guy,
The one thing I know for sure is if you want a nice uniform color on the outside of the boat you'll want to make sure the base color is uniform in color. Looking back at your pictures there are several shades of dark/light in the paneling from the scarfs, stem, tramsom, screws etc. A primer of some will be necessary to achieve what I am sure yor looking for. a friend has recently finished the outside (white) of a wooden power boat and used a primer and several coats of two part polyurethene for finish coats and it looks awsome. Lots of hand sanding is the price you pay! My friends words, not mine.
Keep up the great work.
phil w.
-
-
That's excellent advice, Phil. Thanks. I will primer the hull before painting.
-
-
The transom and the "stem cap" are ready for the final sanding at 220-grit.
-
-
These pictures show how I am holding the chine cap in place while I drill the holes for the wood screws. I wasn't sure it was going to work, but it works perfectly.
© 2024 Created by Randy Dersham.
Powered by
