Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat

I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.

About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.

I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)

The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.

Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.

Thanks for being here.

phil w. (Dorf)

 

 

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Permalink Reply by tungsten on July 13, 2012 at 2:52pm

Lookin good Phil,you must be left handed?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on July 13, 2012 at 6:19pm

Mr. Tungsten,

No, I'm right handed.  I've been known to do some things bass ackwards, must be a fault somewhere in my brain.  Actually, I've been doing things on the right side of the fence for years.  A side benefit has been my right hand (the dominate one) is still intact.  I look at my left hand as expendable I guess, wacked the left thumb twice with the table saw and the index finger once a couple years ago with a Arbor Tech Chain saw blade disk on a 4 1/2 inch grinder.  Net result is, I can't pick up a dime from the table with left hand, thumb is about 3/16" shorter and numb on the end.  Still have all ten digits though, well maybe nine and seven-eights.

Thanks for the kind words.

phil w.

Dorf

 

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on July 13, 2012 at 6:08pm

Rick,

Nope, I used a couple of cheap blades from Home Depot.  They were new when I used them.  They did a good job, but it was WRC.  Not much of a challange, eh.  Here's a picture of them.

I've been known to be a little frugal (cheap) on some things.

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on July 13, 2012 at 8:13pm

Give the Matsushita economy blades, Not as cheap as the Erwin's but they work well. They originated the thin-kerf idea to the best of my knowledge. I had a customer that gang-ripped with six or more of them.

Rick

Permalink Reply by Dan Hooper on July 14, 2012 at 9:39am

Phillip, why are you doing a bead & cove?  Being that the sides are so flat, why not do a rolling bevel instead?  It seems that it would take much less effort & save both time & wood.  There is a good discussion on the Kayak Building Forum.  Just a thought. 

Dan

 

 

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on July 14, 2012 at 5:52pm

Dan,

Hadn't thought of it.  Being I have done the bead and cove before and have the cutters I just figured on doing it that way.  I'll take a look at the KBF and see what it looks like.  I am not hung up on B & C.  We'll see what shakes. 

Thanks for the heads up.

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on July 14, 2012 at 5:55pm

Rick,

I have not seen them, yet.  Are they something I have to mail order or is there someone who sells them, like Lowes, HD, etc.

Thanks,

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on July 15, 2012 at 9:55am

Phil, I think that they are more of a West Coast item as distribution is from a small town in Oregon. They are online, look for Matshushita. I have also been using Freud blades, they are also thin-kerf ATB (alternate tooth bevel) so they produce a very clean edge, often don't need any preparation for gluing especially with epoxy. So in my opinion a higher quality blade not produces a better edge reducing labor they are cheaper in the long run because they last longer. I worked two years as a manufacturer's representative for the distributor and after many conversations with end-users I feel that the better blades are worth the investment. Many end-users said the bigger, 10" plus blades were so good they never would have to purchase another blade. I no longer sell or represent any blades but do use both Freud and Matshushista for my own woodworking.

Freud blades are more available both in big box stores and good woodworking stores and online.

Rick N

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on July 27, 2012 at 8:19pm

Finally got some time to work on the boat.  Managed to bead and cove the cedar strips I cut last week.  It took more time to set up than to actually cut them.  I mounted a home built router table to the table saw and used a  set of Woodcraft Cutters to the bead and cove. 

Turns out the 16 ft. boards are about 6 inches too short for the first few strips at the shear.  I'll have to scarf a few slightly longer to make them fit.  We'll start the stripping process next week on the Port Side of the boat.

I managed yesterday to finish assembling the Inner Shear Rail to the Port Side.  I  had to finish fitting it to the last four frames and Stem.  Going to have to steam/heat the last section between the Transom and Frame No. One.  Too much stress to hold it in position at frame No. two. I used West system's Six-10 pre thickened epoxy to bond the shear rail to the frames and stem.  First time I have used it, the caulk gun & tube works slick.  It took only approx 20 minutes to do the whole side & not messy.  Then used C-Clamps at each frame to hold it into position while the epoxy cures.  I'll pull the clamps tomorrow and see how it holds.  Might use tapered trunnels too, at each frame for additional holding.??  We'll see how the epoxy holds.

Question;  I am thinking of wrapping the Shear Rail with towel(s), pouring boiling water on the towels and wrapping the towel with plastic to hold in the heat/moisture.  Hoping this will make it easier to bend the rail between Frame No. One and the Tramsom to reduce the stress.  Any one try this, or have any comments? The rail is approz 16" in this area.  Sorry no pics yet, will post ASAP.

Still plugging away at it,

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Lee E Washburn on July 29, 2012 at 4:13pm

KEEP PLUGGING    Keep the heat on it  Cant wait toget it on the scales. LEE  IVE not used 6-10 yet will have to try on next build project  Will the hot water affect the epoxie. guess its time for me to study up.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on July 31, 2012 at 6:39pm

I found some more time to work on the boat today, was hot and humid.  I epoxied the inner shear rail to the transom.  It wasn't too difficult as I wrapped a small towel around the rail and held it into position with the plastic stretch wrapping used for packaging.  Then wet the towel with boiling water for a few minutes allowing the hot water to penetrate the wood.  I was a lot easier to bend the piece after 30-40 minutes, adding more hot water every five minutes or so.  Here's a pic.

After the piece was epoxied in-place I added a screw to hold it into position while the epoxy cures.  It'll come out after 24 hrs.  I then removed all the other clamps from the frame members on the Port Side Sheer Rail.  The  West System's Six-10 epoxy looks to be holding it in good fashion.

I then fit-up and assembled the Starboard Sheer Rail to the frames and epoxied them in in place with the Six-10 as well.  It sure is nice and easy to use it from the tube.  You can control the quantity and placement very easliy and not make a mess.  It looks like I only used about 20% of the tube.  Not too much wasted in the mixer also.  I purchased a single tube and three additional 2 packs of mixers.

I still have to fit the sheer rail to the stem and transom and will expect to use the boiling water technique to make the fit-up easier.  I am getting excited about having the framing almost complete.  I expect to start the stripping of the sides soon (probably next week).   Here's a pic of work to date.

Here's the rail assembled to the transom and the towel removed.  I single wood screw is holding it in position as the epoxy cures.  I'll remove it and replace it with a tapered trunnel (dowel) later.

Here's what she looks like from further away.

After the framing is complete I'll sand it down again an apply an additional coat of epoxy to seal everything up!  Ordered 6 Oz. F'Glass today for the sides.  Need to take a look at matching the cedar strips to make it look like it has some character not just a random pattern.  Also will be making an accent strip of African Mahagony (Transom)  and Aspen (white).  The stripe will be a 7/8" Mahogany with 1/4" Aspen on either side.  It's all 4 ft. lumber so we'll have to scarf it to get the 15-16 ft. strip.  Lotta work but it'll look nice when it's on the boat.

All for now.

phil w.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on July 31, 2012 at 8:37pm

Phil, your boat is looking great. I can hardly wait to see the finished product!

Rick Newman

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