Looking to visit a Rapid Robert or Trapper in the Gorge

Hello . .

I'm in the planning stages of a boat build.  I almost always thought I'd build a 16' double-ender with transom . . . classic.  But, I'm now thinking that I should at least consider a Trapper, or a Rapid Robert.  I sure would like to see some in person.

I live in the Columbia River Gorge (the Sunny Side (Washington)), but I'm willing to travel a bit to check some boats out.

I will mostly be floating the Klickitat River, but occasionally might travel, and occasionally might like the ability to throw a little motor on and tool about bobber fishing for summer steelhead, or touring my lady.

The Klickitat runs very low during prime fishing season, and I just hate the sound of a rigid, stiff aluminum boat banging/scraping on those rocks.

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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on September 14, 2012 at 7:11am

how many people do you normally have with you in the boat.  Is three people total a requirement or a boat for two is ok? 

If you are coming the Eugene way I can show you two boats, one is the original Trapper and the other is a boat that I bought last year because it looks just like the trapper.  It is rigged to do exactly what you are describing. It has a small cut out and tiny outboard on the transom.  It's made for two people. 

It looks like it was made in the 1970s, home built but well done.

If you are looking for something more traditional there many boats to look at here in the Eugene area.  

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on September 14, 2012 at 9:03pm

I'd say 50% of the time . . . solo.  30% of the time . . . two.  I guess if I've got three to go we'll take my buddies A___aweld.

I sure would like  to get down the Eugene way soon.  I will certainly look you up if I do.

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on September 15, 2012 at 7:23am

If you are solo 50% of the time and never more than two I recommend the Trapper (which is a 12 ft square ender) or a 12ft river pram.  Both are great boats.  

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on September 16, 2012 at 6:31pm

Makes sense to me.  However, one of my big hangups is style/lines.  I think I would be sad to not be looking at that beautiful high-nosed stem running down river. 

However, in reality, I want to be sure that whatever I build excels in skinny, bony water . . . floats high.  The Klicktat is a shallow one.  What are your thoughts there?

Permalink Reply by Roger Fletcher on September 14, 2012 at 2:15pm

Ray Heater and Cyrsu Happy build three versions of an adapted Rapid Robert: a 12, 14 and 16 footer. Ray is in Sandy (east of Portland on Hwy 26 and convenient to the Gorge)and Cyrus is in their Portland shop. Take a look here - http://raysriverdories.com/driftboat_MckenzieRiverSpecs.html

There are also some folks local to the greater Portland area who have built the Trapper and the 14' Rapid Robert. Perhaps they'll speak up.

And Randy is right about the opportunitiers in the Eugene area.

 

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on September 14, 2012 at 9:13pm

Thanks Roger.  I have now read through most of your book . . . beautiful job.  I actually had a chance to visit with Cyrus a couple of weeks ago when I was through Portland.  Inspiring.  Thansk for the feedback.

Permalink Reply by Stephen Markley on September 16, 2012 at 7:40pm

My understanding of the Rapid Robert is, it is a great low water boat... something to consider. I believe the draft on the double enders is a little more.

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on September 17, 2012 at 9:07pm

I suppose that comes from the increased surface area of the bottom with the square end, and also the reduced rocker. 

I am wondering if I could possible keep the reduced rocker of the bottom (for the decreased draft), and increase the rise of the sheer lines stem and stern to gain back a little more of that 'classic' look.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on September 18, 2012 at 8:31am

Tom, you can change almost any of the dimensions you want. Since all designs are compromises of some sort any changes you make form a new compromise. Higher sides will catch more wind and make entry and exit potentially more difficult. If you change the rise of the shear lines at the stem and stern then the frames must rise correspondingly.

Dave Z makes a great case for making manila file folder models. These will tell you what your changes will look like, how wide your plywood must be to make the sides, etc. It's a great tool.

Dynamite Payson's books also help with the model making concept. I don't remember which one specifically at the moment. There's lots of info on his methods available. Dave Z and Guy Fredrickson both have some good posts. There are others but my memory fails me.


Keep us informed on how your new build is coming.

Good luck,

Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Doug Dumler on September 18, 2012 at 8:27pm

I recently finished my RR and am very pleased with the end result.  I used the plans available online at the:

home.clara.net/gmatkin/rapidrobert/rapidrobert.htm site

and did my own modifications to the interior.  Everything went together well and the boat is fair and true w/o a strongback.  I double laminated 1/4" ply on the bottom and staggered the scarfs and used 1/4" on the sides.  I covered the exterior and interior  with fiberglass cloth.  And coated the outside with polyurethane paint.  The ribs in the plan are a little light;  if I built another one I would widen the ribs by about 1/4", and be sure to cut the same angle on the inside of the rib as you do on the outside.  It will keep you from having to let-in the inner gunwale.  (beginners  mistake).  I put full removable floor deck in; we'll see how it holds up.  Have fun with the build and take your time...You can see pics on my page...   

Permalink Reply by lhedrick on September 24, 2012 at 5:10pm

Since the real RR gets both it's sides from 2 4X8 sheets of plywood there is a limit to what changes can be made.  The transom height needed for a motor will require the stem to go down. After the sides have been cut out it would be possible to add rocker by cutting up the chine edge but that's not a good idea back at the transom.  There is not much stem left after using most of the 48 inches for the transom so there will be a limit to lifting the floor at the stem.

The only reason to build a RR is that it is built from 4 sheet of plywood.  Why not just add the cost of 2 more sheets and then make the side panels anything you want?  In the total cost of the boat we are talking about 200 dollars.  

I almost built a RR but after long study it just didn't seem to make sense building a bassackwards drift boat just to save 200 dollars.

Permalink Reply by Tom Anderson on September 24, 2012 at 9:29pm

That's some good perspective lhedrick. 

Acutally, though, I had never thought of saving plywood as a reason to want to build aRR.  I was more thinking that the RR would have shallower draft (less rocker and one wide end) for my local shallow river, and that it would be 'dual-purpose' to an extent with the wide transom.  I do hesitate a bit on the idea of building a 'half-breed', and think that I might miss the classic looks of the double-ender.


I suppose what I should really do, is just build a nice double-ender with transom.  I do not need the boat to perform well under motor power . . . just get me from launch to anchored fishing hole.

I think the real way for me to make the decision will be to get to visit a RR (and the smaller Trapper) in person . . . the original intent of this post. 


Please keep the helpful opinions and suggestions coming . . . I appreciate all of it.

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