Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on January 29, 2016 at 7:20pm

Mike,

IF I were you I'd hold off cutting holes in the floor boards.  I am 6'-3" and have the same problem.  My plan was to cut them or make an adjustable foot rest after I had made a couple of trips on the rivers.  So far I don't feel the need for either of them.  Our rivers aren't that fast and the times you really need to "Pull" on the oars are few and far between.

After the initial launch I have raised the Oarlocks 3" on each side, re-positioned the rubber stops 2"-3' to effectively shorten the oars, and lightened them by reducing the diameter below the wraps to the blades eliminating 1.2 Lbs each (this was due to their being heavy when holding them above the water when drifting downstream). I still don't seeing the need to add anything on the floor to anchor my feet.

Just my humble $0.02 worth.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by David Witton on January 30, 2016 at 4:12pm

Mike

Here's Steve Steele's approach to the 'hole in the floor" design:

I like the way the floorboards in front of the rower's seat sit on the bottom of the boat.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on January 30, 2016 at 5:07pm

Allows the seat to be lower also  with the lower floor

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on January 31, 2016 at 7:40pm

I`m going with the height I have worked out. I can get the oars out of the water, yet any lower and I`ll be rowing up into  my chest. I think 8ft oars will work out good too. I`m gonna make the oar lock blocks about 1 1/2" higher than the side rail and see how that works out. Wont know for sure till I get it in the water, but I think I have a good place to start and can always make changes. If anything I think I might have to raise the seat. Time to move forward.

I had just enough scrap plywood to get enough pc`s for 2 boxes for the center compartments so they can drop down a few inches deeper for more storage, working on those now. I still have the option to cut foot holes in the floorboards if I need them. Got the seat pipes cut and threaded, and some supports for the pipes in play. The pipes are about 5ft so I had to add center supports cause of the flex in the pipe. Really thought the thick 3/4" pipe would be tougher.

I think this is the part of the project where all the little stuff seems never ending. Talked to Steve P. today and got to thank him for the inspirations he gave me for the seat benches. Been looking at those pics for months now.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 2, 2016 at 8:52pm

had to use the kitchen table for a epoxy bench last night, fired up the woodstove and got those parts sanded tonight.

Cut up the rest of the plywood I had for the seat bench storage and got the parts cut to size ready to assemble and drilled all the drain holes in the bottoms as they wont be water tight compartments

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 4, 2016 at 3:53pm

Got all the bench top parts coated with epoxy and a first coat of 50/50 thinner and varnish. Honestly, I think with the epoxy as a sealer it didnt need the 50/50 coat, but oh well. Also got a coat of 50/50 onall the compartment parts too. Tomorrow I`ll sand those bench tops with 220 and get a real coat of varnish on them...then again...and again...and again...and assemble the compartment boxes.Tonight I`m gonna work on some oar lock blocks.

So I got carried away with the planer on those bench tops and ended up less than 3/4", I had bnought 1 1/2" stainless piano hinge so I had to re order some 1 1/4" hinge and got it today. I need to cut alot of pc`s. Whats the best way to cut this stuff????

I`m thinking cutoff wheel in my die grinder?

I ordered#6 stainless screws for the hinge, they fit the 1 1/2" perfect but not happy how they fit the 1 1/4" so I`ll look for some #4`s and see if they fit better. Figures they had to make a different size hole.

I was gonna use the hard plastic boat seats, but I couldnt find any brown ones, just green white gray or blue, so I dug up some other old boat seats Ive had stored and am gonna clean them up, swap the posts out with the swivels and use these nice padded ones. And the brown will go great with the wood in the boat!!

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on February 4, 2016 at 5:03pm
Mike, I think you need to get some 1,000 grit paper, make everything really smooth!
Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 4, 2016 at 6:33pm

OK Rick, I`ll get some paper, and work each coat smoother. (its just a fishing boat!!) Made up some oar lock blocks. Got the oarlocks coming tomorrow from Clacka, but not sure on the size so I`ll have to wait and I`ll want to get some plastic bushings. I can have 2 holes, Ive read 8" in frt of the rowers seat is the spot, so I`ll set one there and the other a few inches forward in case I move the seat forward. This will give me something to start with at any rate and I`ll make new ones if need be. These need some sanding but it got too darn cold out tonight, had to come in. Cut these out of some scrap cherry.

Cleaned those seats up, they look good. And with swivels under them they are not any higher than the other plastic seats, and should be really comfy. Ive had these things around for 20 years. When I bought them they were 22.97. I think they gof ro around $50 now!!

I got a line on a transom corner anchor bracket and next week I have to call back, he might have some used side pulleys to save me a couple bucks. Getting the hardware together a little. I need to order some steel for the trailer soon too.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on February 4, 2016 at 9:05pm

Thats all just gonna be too nice to fish from,you'll have to cover it all.

the other plastic seat i found has more flex in the back rest,for the rower its handy when ever you have really pull on the oars you can lay right back.This is why you normally don't see a back rest on the rowers seat.

Cutting the hinge at high speed will turn it blue.slow speed sawsall works nice.

Permalink Reply by David Witton on February 5, 2016 at 5:27am

Mike

Lookin' really good! Almost ready to get wet - when is ice out in your area?

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 5, 2016 at 3:18pm

Hard to say this year David, its been not the norm here all winter, but right now its normal winter. The last 2 winters were brutal and long, even Grand Traverse Bay froze over the last 2 winters which is pretty rare, not this year though. Ive got Feb and Mar for winter at any rate, then its gonna be getting springish (I hope). Most of the rivers are flowing still, some with shelf ice right now.

I`m still a ways out from getting it wet, but I`m hoping in the next month to about have it together. Probly a couple weeks to finish up the carpentry and little things  and a couple more in just sanding and varnishing. Oars are still up in the air. Another month building a trailer. So still a ways off but on target for spring!!

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on February 6, 2016 at 10:03pm

Ended up cutting the piano hinge with the die grinder with a cutoff wheel running it slowly, worked really good. Then rounded the corners a little on the bench grinder. These benches are about the last of the carpentry then maybe just maybe...I can get back to varnishing the boat!!

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