Clue less rookie here again...there seems to be no place in this part of Wyoming to buy any kind of marine oil finish so I am going to make up a batch of home brew for the interior of my boat.  I can find terp, linseed oil and Japan dryer right here in Thermop but no pine tar. I was wondering what the pine tar does for the finish.  If it only acts as a stain then I'll go without it because there is a variety of pretty woods in the boat, cherry, walnut, oak and redwood, no sense in making them all look the same...unless the tar cats like a UV inhibitor...cheers...Pete

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Replies to This Discussion This is the s@#t right here! Ive priced it out you can't make boat soup cheaper than this and it is way better. If you sign up for an account the price drops a lot and free shipping on anything over $100.00. Pine tar ads some color and helps it dry a bit if you still want to use soup. Personally I hate the smell of turp. If you use this first it works better. You can add Jap drier to the Daly's stuff too to help drying.

Just one builders opinion.

Plus it doesn't turn everything a dark brown. If you want to see the grain and character of your woods then pine tar won't be helpful. The Daly's that Mike mentioned however will allow the woods character to show and protect it. Also easy to apply and reapply. Do a search on Daly's using our search engine and see what pops up. Sometimes asking a question in the search engine will return better results.

Rick N

Thanks for the heads up on fisheries supply...that's a pretty good deal...I 'm ordering the Daly's and some Flagship varnish from there...probably will get my oars from there also...

Fisheries is a gem. FYI if you are ordering the Barkley oars (awesome oars! I have them) the shipping on the 9' is jacked up. Call them and they should wave the $80.00 fee.

Those are darn nice oars for a buck 30...I was going to build mine with some nice fir I've been saving but for the price I'll buy the Barkleys...did you put leather, rope, or the plastic oar rights on your oars?  I've only rowed with composite oars with plastic oar rites but this boat is very traditional so maybe I'll go with rope or leather...

Rope is more popular, but leather is the best!

Pete, I'm good friends w your son Ben. Hope he has a great first gc trip next week. I was supposed to go but idiot me is staying home...

Anyways, I also reccomend teak oil over boat soup. Seems a little less mildew prone. I would advise oil inside the hull all day, but on places like seat tops and horizontal surfaces, varnish all day. Only exception is floorboards cause the oil will slow the wood grain to have a natural grip. Looking forward to seeing your boat!

That crew is bound to have a splendid 3 weeks on the river...but Ben told me that you are building a house, and nothing is more rewarding than building your own place...

I'm late to the party here, but my boat soup recipe is this:

Boiled Linseed Oil

Turpentine (some smells great, others awful. Find one that smells nice)

Petit Z-Spar Cyprian's or Flagship Varnish


A dollop of Pine Tar for color and to make it smell like a pirate. A bit more if you want it darker; a bit less or none if you don't. I get mine from American Rope and Tar. It's wonderful.

A dollop of Japan Drier.

Brush or wipe on liberally until the wood quits drinking. Wait a little while but not long enough for it to get gummy. Don't do it in the sunlight!

Rub dry. Seriously. Dry.

Burn the rags in the wood stove so they don't burn your shop down.

I've been using this on dory gunwales and oars for decades and it is the best finish I've ever been around. Never have to sand it. It never cracks or gets water beneath it. And it's beautiful.


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