Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
First stitch and glue project
I am currently in progress of my first build, a McKenzie river stitch and glue. I have been researching this project for several months and been working for a couple of weeks. I have been pulled in a hundred different directions and don't know what to do. Sidewalls are stitched and the inside of the boat has 2 coats of epoxy. I will ask some questions and if anyone can help I would really appreciate it.
1: Would a chine log on the inside of the boat benefit me over a fillet? I was told this would increase strength.
2: If this chine log would help, can I use my 1/4" plywood and laminate the chine log?
3: My plans apparently did not call for any rocker. I did not know this until the boat was stitched together. Is there any way to add rocker other than taking the sides apart and re-cutting? I messed around with spreading the topsides to get rocker but this worries me structurally.
4: The plans I have call for one 5 oz glass layer on the outside bottom of boat. This seems light to me so I ordered 5 oz Kevlar for the bottom and by reading on here sounds like I need several layers on the bottom if using 5 oz. Any comments on this?
5: Finding proper lumber for me in central Indiana has been a struggle. If I use cedar and cypress, would I have any problems? This wood is for bulkhead cleats, gunwales and possibly the chine log if plywood is not acceptable. Can I rip a 16’ 2X by myself on a table saw?
This is just the tip of the ice berg. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Apparently my plans weren’t quite as thorough as I thought.
Thanks,
Joey
Views: 3007
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Joey on
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Thanks, maybe that was my problem. I should consider re-stocking my garage refrigerator!
Since my last post I have fiber glassed over the chine with 4 and 6 inch tape and was working a little on fairing that area the other night. Looks like I will have plenty of sanding to do.
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Permalink Reply by tungsten on
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Theres never any mistakes with boat building, just design changes.
Sounds like your back on track.
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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
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Joey, is the Kevlar saturated with epoxy throughout or just in places? I ask because it might be possible to either cut it into smaller pieces and laminate it in section into the boat or to laminate it to the outside bottom and cover it with another layer of fiberglass. If you can at least protect the bottom under the bow area you would reduce the potential for damage in a often hit area. Just a thought.
Rick Newman
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Well, the Rookie has another question; I am on to glassing the outside of the boat. I just finished one side and am getting ready to go out with my wife. The epoxy has taken an average of 5 hrs to go into the second "gel" stage where if I were to do another coat, this is the time. With the fiberglass on and just having the first coat, if I let that go to full cure, do I need to hit with sand paper before I can continue on with the flow coats? I'm not sure if i will get into the fibers and also not sure if I could just wait until tomorrow to start on the flow coats. Thanks for any help.
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If your shop is cool i'd say no problem you don't need to sand.All of the epoxy I've tried can't be sanded for at least 4 days at room temp.You'll no buy sanding it,if it doesn't make tiny little particals of dust its not cured.
I've made the mistake of sanding to early, 48 hours at 65F,your next coat won't hide the marks cause you ended up smearing it rather then sanding it.If you did want to sand go lightly and slowly don't make any heat.
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Thanks Tungsten, I have read in Gougen book, (I'm using West Systems) that the appropriate time to coat over is anywhere from 3-8 hrs. I was assuming this was the "best" time to due so.Your response confirms my assumption. I will crack a few windows in the shop and turn the heat off as the low tonight will be in the mid 40's. May give me a larger window yet. I appreciate the help.
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Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on
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Beware of blush with West Systems. Check with them on how much blush you get with fast and slow hardener at different temps. Blush is a slightly tacky residue that appears on the surface of West System epoxy after cure. It needs to be removed with water, no need to use acetone or alcohol. Some recommend a mild ammonia solution for the wash. Blush will interfere with adhesion between the coats of epoxy. If you apply the flow coats soon enough the flow coats will chemically bond with the initial coat. If the initial coat completely cures, sanding will promote a mechanical bond, and refresh the epoxy surface and aide at least a bit of chemical bonding.
Sanding does not remove blush.....it just smears it around.
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Varnish- I know this topic has been covered in several other threads but was a little confusing to me as the responses were "add ons" to other questions. I realize now, after epoxying the interior of my craft, that boat soup may have been the better choice. I am a little nervous about the work and time that is going to go into varnishing the interior. Anyone one have any recommendations on what type of varnish, application techniques, etc.? Lots of small tight corners and such will need to be addressed. I am planning on using Z-spar per recommendations on other threads. As always, I appreciate the help ahead of time.
Joey
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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on
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Joey,
There tends to be a majority opinion of not liking Varnish as a coating for the interior of wooden drift boats. It all comes down to personal preference. What's inportant to you! First things, first. Look at Guys Wooden Drift Boat Project Pages 41 & 42. There's a decent discussion of varnishing. It's not all black magic just follow directions and don't cut corners.
Varnishing is not that big a deal, consider how many hours of sanding and other prep time you have put into the boat. It has to be protected from the elements. The quality of varnish is most important, look at the specs of the varnish of your choice and make sure it will do the job.
I built a stripper canoe in 2006 and have only varnished it once since then. It's indoors most of the time and has a canvas cover on it. It has eight original coats of varnish on the outside, six on the inside. In 2010 I wet sanded it w/ 220 Grit and added two more on the outside. Still looks like it did in 2006.
You don't need to do it annually unless you leave it uncovered outdoors with out a cover. Even a painted boat will need to be treated with care if it's to last. You've gone this far don't cheap out now. Just my $.02 worth.
Dorf
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Thanks for the lead on Guy's build. I talked to a tech at Jamestown Distributors yesterday. He was very helpful and got me started on the right track I believe. I suppose all that is left is to just do it and ask questions as I go. I still have plenty of fairing to do and more glassing/ coating on the bottom of the boat. This will give me a little more time to research and think through the varnishing, mental prep I guess you would say.
Joey
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Joey,
As your contemplating your next move and being positioned upon your "Moaning Chair" don't forget the most important accessory, potent potables. I prefer a 12 yr old Canadian Blended Whiskey myself, straight up. Or in a pinch, Jim Beam.
Just remember, all things in moderation!
Dorf
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Personally, I'm a Number 7 kind of guy. It must be time to crack the seal and refresh myself. I have taken a couple of days off of the project in preparation for our (Indiana) turkey season. This will be welcomed break after scrambling my brains over this for several days. A week of chasing thunder-chickens should put the boat building mindset to rest for a little while. Hopefully I can return with a fresh take on the whole process.
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