I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.

About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.

I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)

The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.

Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.

Thanks for being here.

phil w. (Dorf)

 

 

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Phil,

I'm new to the forum and have been reading through all your posts. Beautiful boat you've got there and thanks for sharing. I'm sure you saved me countless hours (and a marriage) because I just finished a wood strip canoe and had every intention of using the same technique on a drift boat. I am now committed to plan B: plywood :)

Jack

Jack, Dorf has already traversed the difficulties in building a wood-strip drift boat with out screws. The path has been cleared to shorten your journey. However, any boat you build yourself is worth the effort, there's nothing like it as you have discovered.

Dorf, no boat or fish pictures to share yet. Too busy fishing and not catching. Will be on the river again on the 21st and 22nd.

Rick

Thanks Rick and I agree. Anxious to get started, but while I wait on my Rapid Robert plans this forum is VERY therapeutic :)

Jack, 

Glad I could be of help.  I hope you'll share your build here with us.

G'Luck!

Dorf

Well I finally made it to a significant milestone.  The bottom is glassed and ready to add the Chine Logs in a few days.  I added a second layer if glass and the 4 th and 5 th coat of epoxy to the bottom today.  It sure feels good to finally have something that'll float (I hope).  Here's a pic taken a few minutes ago.

You can see the Lines on the rear half showing the lay of the top layer of planks that I laid at 60 degrees to the first (upper) layer.  I tried sanding them fair but I would have to sanded half of the wood (1/4") away.  I filled the worst of the "Valleys" with a filler epoxy and it made it better.  So I decided to stop there and live with what I have......

A little deviation;

I Spent five days last week in Northern Canada doing some Walleye and Pike fishing with some friends. There was 9 of us total.  We stayed a Forrest Lodge which is 160 Miles North of Thunder Bay, Ontario at Caribou Lake.  We had several Shore Lunches and Dinners of fresh Walleye.  Didin't bring back our Limit of 4 each, but we caught a lot of fish each day and released those we didin't eat, including a few nice Pike over 30".

One of my boat buddies caught a real wopper, a 10 Lb. Anchor with about 20 ft. of 1/2" line in 40 ft. of water.  We managed to get it up on 12 Lb. Line.  Was a feat in itself.  Here's a pic.

A few eaters.

And the final result.

Another Fisherman waiting in the wings (Bald Eagle).

More to come,

Dorf

Managed to get some work done on the DB this week.  Managed to make and dry fit the Outer Chine Logs and Transom Trim.   Then flipped the boat over, right side up, to begin work on the Outer sheer rails, Fly Deck, Seats, floor, etc.   Still will need to remove them and give them a couple-three coats of clear epoxy prior to permanently Epoxying them to the hull.  

I used a few screws to hold them in place. The screws, like all the previous ones will be replaced with split dowels.  Still lots to do on the inside.

Here's a couple of pics from earlier today.

Starting to look a boat, eh.

Dorf

Really looking good. What wood are your frames made of?

The fishing on the Grande Ronde River was fun, the weather was cool at night and mid 70's during the days. I had a few tugs but nothing that stayed around so the catching wasn't good for me. By Sunday afternoon one of the guys caught a 22 incher. Going to the Clearwater River in Idaho to do another Lewis & Clark photo expedition on Saturday and Sunday. I will have time to fish on Friday, perhaps a Chinook or a steelhead will show up on one of my hooks.

When's your first float? When will you start to fish for steelhead back there?

Rick

Rick,

Thanks for the kind words.  So far all the frames, chine logs, sheer rails are White Ash.  I am looking at incorporating other woods into the interior stuff.  I am looking at making the Fly Deck from strips of several woods.  Maybe it'll be Mahogany, Ash and something with a neat grain, like Birds Eye Maple.  Staining the Woods is another consideration.  Lots of time to determine that.

I am thinking of using Western Red Cedar for the floor boards.  Starting to take weight of the boat into consideration.

Sorry to hear the catching wasn't as good as you'd hoped.  I consider catching a bonus, the real pleasure is being out there with the wildlife.  The L & C expedition sounds neat, lots of history there.  I just, this past Winter, read a couple of biographies of the Expedition, was very eye-opening.  would be sweet to travel in their footsteps, someday maybe.....

I am trying to get a trip set-up for next week to the West Side of Michigan and targeting Steelies.  They are starting to come in the rivers as the Salmon migration is winding down. The weather has been too warm so far.  Water Temps just dropped into the 50's. last weekend.

I am hoping to have the DB ready for the Spring Run, about early April.

Take care,

Dorf

Phil,

Your boat is looking awesome!  I can just imagine how much more awesome it's going to look once it's varnished!

Great workmanship!

Guy

Guy,

Thanks there are several boats featured in this forum which I consider benchmarks for workmanship, neat features and good looks.  Yours is right up there with all of them including Mike Rosso's, Eric Krause's, Nick N's. Jay S's. and several others.  The features and workmanship have inspired me to try and keep up.

I am also getting anxious to start applying the Varnish.  Hoping it'll turnout as nice as my canoe.  I have been using a different epoxy, not West's 105/207.  We'll see soon.

Dorf

I found this on another Forum, It's a few hints on applying Varnish over Epoxy and wood for a natural finish.  I am getting close to The varnishing of the interior of my DB and found some good information I thought I'd share here.
RE: boatdesign. net, PAR, Yacht Designer/Builder, Fla. 21SE2013.  
"Go over the surface with 220, then with 240, but I wouldn't go much higher as you get into polishing, instead of toothing. Roll on the varnish, across the grain, then brush it off with the grain. This should be done immediately after it's rolled, so a two man job does it best, one unskilled rolling, the other knocking it down with the grain. Don't over brush it, just move it along to remove stipple from the roller and let it flow out to self level.

Varnish is a feel thing, more so then applying a coating. It should flow uniformly and level itself out. Just a few strokes are all that's needed, in any area. Using a roller insures the varnish goes down in a uniform thickness and is far superior to a brush in this regard. Lastly, roll and brush SLOWLY, so you don't fling anything around and create more bubbles than necessary. You're not painting, you're just letting a brush softly separate the wet stuff, much like a notched trowel, so there's some place for the varnish to level into."     
I underlined a few key items as I have experienced them in the past. 
If working alone roll only a small section at a time, about 24" x 36", max.  Also using a dry brush works better, just use the tips.  I have also cut down the length (~3/4" lg.) of a brush's fibers to stiffen it up somewhat.  A natural black brush allows you to see any loose fibers also.
 Go Tigers!
Dorf

Sheer Rails are fitted and ready to remove and coat with epoxy.  Tramsom Trim pieces also except the top plate which is awaiting a means to incorporate the anchor drop support.

Trying to take advantage of the nice weather we're having here.

Dorf

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