Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
First build
Hi everyone, I'm just getting started. I've gathered all the tools, read Fletcher's book about 6 times (so great), and read quite a lot of these posts (also great). I've decided to build a 17x54. Went to the lumber dealer in town, and decided i'm definitely going to use the Hydrotek BS 1088 6mm for sides, and 12mm for floor. I'm going to use Mahogany for the Stem. I'm planning to use Port Orford Cedar for the frames, and was thinking i'd match that with White Oak for the rails/chines. I hope to have the boat for the rest of my life, and while i want it to be the most beautiful boat ever built, I truly want to use materials that will last and be effective. So, first question... Instead of White Oak, anyone ever use Port Orford for rails? It seems like the color would be similar to White Oak, but i wonder about durability as a rail. appreciate any insight you might have.
Views: 10530
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on
-
Looks good dusty
-
Permalink Reply by robert godard on
-
areas where boat will take impacts....rocks, oars, etc...cedar is prone to easy damage. Better to use a harder wood, like oak, mahogany, ash, maple. They'll still get dinged up, but at a much slower rate.
-
Permalink Reply by Dusty on
-
Choosing white oak for my chines. Sounds like I'm asking for trouble if grain run-out is less than 18 inches? Can someone explain how to measure that? i can't seem to find a good explanation
-
Permalink Reply by David Witton on
-
The chines and chine logs have the most severe bend of any parts in the boat. Excessive grain runout would cause these parts to break when bent. To get a feel for this, take a short piece of 1"x3" and stand it vertically. Take a wide chisel and orient the blade parallel to the 3" edge of the wood and split the piece. If the split runs parallel to the edge of the board, there's no runout and you'll end up with two roughly rectangular pieces - on the other hand if the split "runs out" of one of the flat edges of the piece, you'd have a problem trying to bend it. Once you understand the concept, it's fairly easy to examine the way the grain runs through the board and determine whether it is a good candidate for bending.
-
-
Steamed the chine and clamped it in preparation for the installation... worked great. Going to dry fit, then bed w/ 5200.
-
Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on
-
Those clamps are sick! What are they?
-
Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
-
ABS pipe with a slit cut in them.
Rick N
-
-
Yep, Rick is correct. Had an old pipe laying in the back of the property and a friend suggested that i could make about 50 effective clamps out of it. Didn't believe him, but went along with it. Was completely surprised how much clamping force these little guys have. It has been super effective for a few applications like the pic above.
-
Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on
-
You can stack them on top of each other for even more force in a small area!
-
-
Can i use the Silicone Bronze ring nails to fasten the inside chine? (planning to bed with 5200) or should i use Screws? if the strength is the same, i'd like to use the Bronze Nails. But it seems like this application may need screws to ensure it sucks it to the side panel?
-
Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on
-
The ring nails will work as well as screws. I've used them for years to attach the outside sheer rail because of the speed of using them as a "clamp". So they will hold things very tight. Just clamp the chine to the side before you nail. After the nail is in place, the clamp can be removed. Be sure to pre-drill to avoid any splitting.
That said, screws are more normal for that part of the build.
© 2024 Created by Randy Dersham.
Powered by
