Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat
I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.
About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.
I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)
The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.
Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.
Thanks for being here.
phil w. (Dorf)
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on
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I finally found some time to get back to work on the DB. The fitted Sheer Rails, Chine Logs and the Transom Trim have the first coat of epoxy and ready to sand for the second coat, tomorrow?? I think three coats are in order for them.
One of the consequences of NO Screws in the hull has caused lots of additional work to assure the integrity of the hull. After I filpped the hull right side up I have added fillets to all the frame members to the bottom and sides. I used Cedar wood powder and talc (50/50) to the epoxy to obtain the required thickness (peanut butter) to hold it's shape on the vertical surfaces. It was a real pain in the arse leaning into the hull and laying the thickened epoxy and forming a clean radius. I used West's stir stick's rounded end for the radius.
Here's a couple of pics. I am using a Fordom with a 1/2 dia sanding roll to smooth and shape the final shape of the fillet. I tried it by hand and decided I want the boat in the water this decade. That's the Fordom Tool laying in the boat and the green board is 80 grit sand paper glued to a flat piece of wood with a radius on one edge for finish sanding.
Here's a close up of the mess resulting of the power tool.
I am hoping to have all the sanding complete by next week so I can add another coat or two of clear epoxy over the fillets to provide addition sealing for moisture. Depending how that ends up I'll begin the Varnishing of the interior surfaces then the exterior. My goal is to get the hull varnished inside and out before I have to give up the garage to my wife's car for the Winter.
More to come,
Dorf
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Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on
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Dorf,
When I finished my hull, Lee Washburn posted "now the work starts" on my thread. He was right!
Hang in there!!!
Guy
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Managed to get a full day in sanding. The fillets and interior are ready for a final coat of epoxy. Also will be adding the second coat of epoxy to the Sheer Rails and Chine Logs. Starting to feel like I am making progress.
Here's the inside after I wiped it down on the inside with a wet cloth. Kinda gives you a feel for the wood with varnish.
Still lots to do but the interior stuff should go faster as the elements are not so labor intensive. I also have permission from my wife to do some of the epoxy work in the family room downstairs. No sanding allowed but the epoxy odor isn't a problem.
More to come.
Dorf
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Permalink Reply by steve putnam on
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Dorf, that's true love. does she have a sister lol. A real nice boat you got going there.
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Thanks for the knid words. Yea, I'am not sure it's true love, more like barganing. She just hit me up for a trip to Vegas with her sister. So, how could I say no.....
Dorf
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Dorf, The hull is looking great! Guy
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How's the fishing out there? I'd hope you are getting some seat time int he Boat between Hunting trips.
Dorf
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Dorf, I haven't been steelhead fishing yet. Friends of mine went out on the Salmon River near Salmon, ID, last weekend and didn't catch anything. I'll get out sometime soon!
And as for hunting, I drew a controlled antlered elk tag this season and, shamefully, never made it out.
Guy
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Guy,
Like most of us I am sure you've been busy. i assume you might not qualify for a length time for another Elk Tag. That's how it works here.
Next Wed. a friend and I are going to the West side of the state, Depending on how things go it might be just a one day or several day trip. The weather's turned to Winter mode so it drives the crowds that accumulate looking to take home tons of Salmon.
Unfortunetly the boat will still in the shop. I might have the exterior complete but no seats, oarlocks, etc. Still lots of work to do, and figure out what designs to use inside the boat. Nothing concrete yet.
phil w.
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The hull is finally complete, as I mounted the sheer rails and chine logs these last two days. All that’s left to do is remove the S. S. Screws and plug the holes with wood dowels. That’ll be work for the next couple of days. There’s a bunch of them to do.
After the screws are removed and the dowels are complete I plan to add a few coats of varnish to the outside of the hull. That will add some protection to the elements. My Wife is asking when she gets her garage parking back.....
I managed to make a couple of Oar Lock Blocks from Black walnut. A friend, who has a machine shop has made a set of Delrin (Acetel) Bushing Inserts for the Brass Oarlocks I picked up at Cabelas a couple of years ago. They are going to mount in the hull between the outer sheer rail and the Inner Sheer Rail. Here’s a pic of the oar locks with first coat of varnish.
I have spent the last few evenings sketching up some of the interior features. I am debating on wether to mount a steel pipe from frame No. 8 back to No.3 to mount both the Front and Middle seats. It is the quicker and easier way to do it.
The other consideration is to fabricate a box along each side just below the Inner Sheer Rails to function as rod holders and to support the two seats. I've seen this on a few S&G Boats, but not too many framed DBs. It would be a lot more work fitting to each of the frames. I am leaning that way though. The seat, deck designs and floor boards are TBD.
More to come.
Dorf
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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
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Dorf,
More wonderful craftsmanship. I think that one of the important things I have learned with my boat is that trim can really matter. The previous boats I rowed did not have this capacity and therefore I had to settle for the handling I got. I have carried a variety of folks in my boat and once I moved their weight around the handling improved greatly. I have been primarily boating in low water with lots of rocks to avoid so being able to maneuver and avoid them is very important.
I know that you will figure out a good way to solve this. I'll be interested to see how you do it.
Rick N
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One strategy to make epoxy fillets easier is to put the mix in a plastic bag with one edge cut and squeeze the mixture out like cake frosting. Put down blue painters tape along both surfaces before laying down the epoxy mix. Use the back of a plastic spoon to form the fillet. You can use a little alcohol on a gloved finger to smooth the surface - don't push into it though. Remove the painters tape before the epoxy sets. If needed run a razor along the tape edge as you peel it up to help ensure the epoxy fillet is not lifted with the tape.
Like painting and varnishing - don't fuss with it after it is layed down - things will most likely get worse not better.
I try to get fillets formed immediately and then smoothed when tacked up but not yet hard. I avoid sanding or shaping after the epoxy is set. If I am making a structural fillet I set the first layer of glass into the fillet while it is starting to kick. I want the glass to stick to the fillet and be able to wet out the glass without dissolving the fillet. If you add glass and start to wet it out immediately after a fillet is put down you can wind up with a puddle of epoxy and fillet components.
Take a look at the Chesapeak Lightcraft web site for suggestions on epoxy fillets.
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