I have the plans for a 16' drift boat, but it would take a rocket scientist to figure out all these measurements and get it right. Any one out there happen to have a set of TRACEABLE rib patterns that you could sell me a copy? Even cut them out on scrap wood, I don't care.
We can discuss the price by PM... Thanks
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Roger Fletcher sells full size plans. Riverstouch.com
Rick N
I can't find them, where the ribs are laid out full size.
I have never looked at a set of his plans, perhaps a note to Roger may help out.
Rick N
Hey Guys,
Rogers plans aren't full size ( I don't thank any are I know mine aren't).
It would be pretty difficult/impossible to do traceable rib patterns. I think you might be overthinking/making it harder than needs be. When making the side ribs set the table saw angle as specified in the plans and cut the side of the rib that contacts the hull, then without changing the angle cut the inside of the rib using a taper jig to get the taper. Same with the bottom ribs except obviously no taper. The angle setting for the sides of the side ribs is also the same setting for the ends of the bottom rib. Conversely the angle for the bottom ribs is the angle for the ends of the side ribs.
Mike
When I built my dory, I took a sheet of plywood and drew the Center Line of the ribs down the middle. At that point I laid out each rib on the sheet of plywood based on the measurements in the plans. This gave me full size templates for each of the ribs. In order to keep this from getting too convoluted, we laid out Ribs 1-5 on one side of the plywood and 6-10 on the other side. This will get you what you need to construct the ribs and was pretty simple so long as you take the time to lay them out accurately. Otherwise I do not believe anyone offers a full size template, but you really don't need one.
Riverman,
I have a set of frames drawn full size on posterboard of Woody Hindman's Double ender with Transom from Roger Fletcher's Book; Drift Boats and River Dories.
A half frame (centerline to Port or Starboard Side) are drawn on individual sheets of poster board and can be used to make the elements of each and fasten them. There are nine frames in all. Included are the angles to cut the inside and outside and floor edges so as to match the shape of the hull.
If you look at my posting here, "Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat" on the first page there are two pictures of the drawings. If your interested we can make a deal to loan them to you. Or, if your plans are of a different design I might be able to draw them for you at a nominal cost. Each frame takes about 20-30 min's each to draw.
Let me know if you are interested. You can PM me.
Dorf
PS: I am not a rocket scientist but spent more than 10 years hunkered over an old fashioned drafting table, 50-60 hrs a week.
Some boat plans come with full size patterns, most do not. The plans come with scale drawings and offset measurements. The measurements are used to loft full size building components onto either building stock or a pattern board. In the case of ribs, the pattern is lofted onto a piece of plywood as described below and in Roger's book.
One reason for using measurements and avoiding full size patterns is that the copying and printing almost always introduces some error. A component drawn to measured points using a fine pencil is going to be more accurate.
One challenge with ribs is the line provided in drawings and offset measurements is a line that runs through the bottom and side components. It does not account for the angle on the edge; extra wood needs to be incorporated to accommodate the angle. That difficulty would not be solved by having a full size pattern on paper.
Regardless of which boat you are building, and the plan source, getting Roger's book would be wise (IMHO). The cost of the book will be returned many times over in saved time and expense of materials. Also, build a model of your boat. It will be an excellent trial run for the production of a nice boat.
Patterns for ribs will be tough. You need the bevels on the sides and bottoms right. Unless the patterns were actual frame sets, it would be tough.
I often kicked around the idea of selling frame kits. sigh... in my spare time!
Best advice is to have a good tablesaw and know how to use it, and draw the frames like Josh's picture on a piece of hardboard.
Once you get one done, you will get the process down and things will go smoother. I thought somewhere here this process was well documented with photos.
Don't let it scare you!
When I first started I was lost... Roger's book along with some cheap 1x4 pine from Home Depot to make some test pieces really helped figure out the bevels, and how to account for them. I definitely didn't start out with the expensive wood! Cooler yet, is the ply I drew my frames on is now part of my boat, so I have a bit of that history tucked into the sides under the glass!
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