Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build
Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?
Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?
Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
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Really big electromagnets!
Rick
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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on
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Thanks Dorf and Rick, as it turns out, Ive misplaced my really big electromagnets. So I think what I will do is smear some of this bedding compound on a few feet of chine cap, and start with a screw on the end, and try to work my way to the other end, bending as I go. Ive coated the back side of the chine caps with epoxy and the hull has glass and many coats of epoxy, so it should seal well.
Nice thing with everything still clear is that I can see all the screws in the side and bottom. I`ll use some blue tape and mark where all the screws are so I dont hit any with the chine cap screws.
I`m cleaning up the other outside rail a little now that its fixed good to the hull, and I`m seeing a spot in the rail where a frame is a little out of alignment causing the rail to not be perfectly fair(dang it).
I thought about taking the boat out back and burning it and starting over, but then I thought maybe no one will notice it once its all done, so I`ll just press forward with the build ;)
OK, heres a question for the experts. I rough cut the transom, the top edge is 90 deg. from the back surface. You can see where the rail(and plywood) meet the transom. I`m going to put a cherry block at the rear inside to bolt the inside rail too, and the angle will not flush out with that 90 degree top edge.
So the question is: What do people do on those corners? Make the side ends the rail angle and just blend it to the 90 deg. top edge? any ideas?
I dont like that I made the rear frame straight instead of tapered, but I`m gonna fill in a pc between the frame sides for a motor to clamp onto on the inside, and butt that block into that fir for the inner rail, so thats ok.
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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on
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Mike,
When you get all the pieces in place take the belt sander and make everything come together. That's what I did. Here's a pic showing the "blending" I did with the belt sander.
If you blow the picture up you can see it better. The Oar is in the background and kinda tales away clarity.
Dorf
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Mike,
Still a great looking boat! It'll be a beauty when you get her complete.
Dorf
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Thanks Dorf. Ive looked at the pics on this site, I can see where people that squared off the transom mixed the angles, but you kinda rounded it like I`m hoping to leave mine. The only thing I could think of is "blending" and thats exactly what you did.
So to follow up on Ricks worry about hitting side and floor screws with the chine cap screws, I ran some tape on the side and marked where the side screws are with a line, and the bottom screws with a B using the line in the B as the mark. This worked out really good. Glad I didnt have graphite on the bottom yet so I could see the screws. You can see how I used less screws on the bottom since I used the 5200 on the bottom of the frames and chine logs.
I set this chine cap in place with the screws, and I`ll do the other side next, then remove them and put the bedding compound on them and screw them back on. This should make it easier and less chance of a mess with the caulk.
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Got the other chine cap fit so this weekend I`ll remove them, sand them just a little and re install them with the bedding compound for good, then cut the tail ends off.
This nasty rough pc of rift sawn white oak is going to be my inside top rails (I hope;) Wish I had a planer but I`ll have to rip it on my little table saw and sand, thats how Ive made all my parts. Now I`m 2nd thinking my cherry blocks for the frt of the rails and might just run the rails into the stem and put the wedge pc in. I`ll have to decide pretty soon. It might look too busy up frt.....but for now this is the frt stem
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I wish that someone had been watching out for me when I did mine chine caps. I did hit a few screws and had to redrill a couple screws. I see you didn't need a big electromagnet!
Rick
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Thank you Rick for watching out for me, Ive been lucky that you are here. I was thinking ahead a little when I screwed the sides and the bottom on. I put the bottom screws near the side screws to leave spaces for the chine caps and knew that I could see them through the glass.
Where I did mess up a little was on the bottom transom trim, I didnt look before I drilled and I lined up those 3 screws exactly where I put the 3 bottom screws. But got lucky and just needed to use shorter screws to hold that trim on while the thickened epoxy dried so it worked out ok.
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Mike I have a very long list of issues that I should have avoided. Perhaps that is why I learned so much, I made so many mistakes I now know what to do and not do! I still have a great deal to learn. The folks here are wonderful about help others, it is a great place to hand out. I don't remember where you live but a trip to the McKenzie River Wooden Boat festival is an important pilgrimage. Keep up the good work. Dorf keeps writing about coming out to the west to go fishing, perhaps both of you can show up next spring!
Rick
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Permalink Reply by tungsten on
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Looks good,i see the old makita drills are still turnin' i have the newer versions,hope they last half the time yours have.
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Heres a little cordless drill history.
Makita made the very first one, it plugged into the wall and had a keyed chuck. I was in my 20`s when I got those 9.6v.`s, now I`m 59.
Those were the first 9.6v. cordless drills made and they came in metal boxes. (I gave up the very first drill they made that plugged in the wall, and still have the very first drill made with 7.5v. battery but cant get batteries any more) Those drills are 30+ yrs old. One was before the keyless chucks were made, and I put one on it years later.
They have more than a ga-zillion rotations on them from doing remodeling for 20+yrs and they just keep working. Ive wanted new ones forever, but I just bought a couple new batteries this year, buy a couple batteries every few years or more. Still got batteries from 09 that still charge, but dont last real long. Ive got the 7.5 and 9.6 flashlights and even a 9.6v. right angle drill when that came out, and a few chargers still. They might just out live me :)
Edit: I did have to replace 1 trigger on one drill, many years ago.
Turned out that pc of white oak was only enough for 3 out of the 4 strips I needed for the inside rails. So I`ll have to get another board. I did get my chine caps glued on with the bedding compound, that stuff was like super thick black rubber that was very hard to caulk with, but dried pretty fast and kinda hard but still a little rubbery. Super messy too like the 5200, and theres no way you could run a nice bead around deck hardware like they show on their pic. I tried to limit the squeeze out but still got a little at the screw locations. I`m hoping I can scrape it off or sand it, but its not too bad. I dont imagine varnish would stick to it though.
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Permalink Reply by David Witton on
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The last time I tried to buy a battery for my 9.6v Makita, it cost as much as a Bosch screwdriver with a battery and charger - but that Makita won't give up, so I'm still using it.
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