Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on January 9, 2016 at 9:14pm

Got the flyline deck mounted with thickened epoxy and ran a fillet around the deck, I still have to sand it. While I was waiting on that, I started getting some 50% varnish on some of the areas. While that was setting up decided to flip it over and get a couple coats of graphite the bottom. That worked out good as I was able to seal the chine cap around the bottom real good. There were a few small gaps that didnt want to bend that 2nd angle around the bottom.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on January 13, 2016 at 10:30pm

Picked up a inexpensive planer from Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon. It seams to work really nice, might not last long but should get me through the benches and finish this boat.

Got the fillet sanded on the fly line deck

Starting to figure out the benches. I`m going to put swivel seats on the benches. Seems like most go 16" from the boat bottom to the bench height, so if thats right I`ll have to figure it to the seat? sound right?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on January 14, 2016 at 8:02pm

Mike,

Ya might want to set a 5 gallon pail in the boat and see if you can determine the "good" height of the seat.  If you have a pair of oars you should be able to cobble up a means to simulate their position and work out the height issue.

I don't think there is a "fixed" formula for determining the rower's seat height, if so maybe someone else here knows it.

I did the above and then after the first couple of times out I raised the Oarlocks 3" and it seems to have worked out better for me.

I also had to re-position the stops on the oars twice now.  I think I finally got it right.  Also reworked the oars by taking out 1 Lb. of weight to make the "work" part easier.

Bottom line it's a never ending battle.  So don't paint yourself in a corner too soon.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by David Witton on January 15, 2016 at 5:40am

16" to the top of the rower's seat seems to be the consensus, with the passenger seats lower - especially if you're planning to pad them, which my wife insists on ;-). I'm gonna run the oarlocks a bit above the gunwale, since I have long legs and don't want to bump my knees. If you can follow Dorf's advice and mock things up, so much the better. 

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on January 15, 2016 at 2:35pm

I go 12" from the bottom of the boat not the floor boards to the bottom of the seat thwarts on the rowers seat (which is roughly 16"). Considerably lower on the front seat especially if you are using swivel seats. I go about 9"-10" to bottom of thwart on the front seat. This is still pretty high with swivel seats. It looks like your sides are kinda low so that will play into it as well. If the front seats are to high it hinders your vision plus it will feel real tippy for your front seat guests. You want them to feel like they are sitting in the boat not on top of it.  Boat is looking good BTW.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on January 15, 2016 at 4:07pm

Thanks Mike, David and Phil for the input. The sides are pretty low. I do have swivel seats I can dig out of the jon boat and some 7` oars I can use to mock things up and I`ll make some temp oar lock blocks. Ive got the width set so I can build the benches then move the pipe up and down, then I`ll make some perm pipe brackets. I`m thinking about notching the rails to set over the pipe so I can remove them and use the wooden locks to hold them in.(instead of a hole for the pipe to run through) and I`ll make the middle section floor the streamside table.

Hoping the idea of adding on some wood ends under the 1x4 rails to raise the rowers seat some will work out and just running the one pc of pipe on each side.

Now that I have this planer I started on the floor boards taking them down from 3/4" to 1/2" thick. Got one section done last night along with all my stock for the benches. I think I`m done buying wood finally (thank God) and I should have enough to finish the boat. So now its just some carpentry, varnish and the final hardware. I figure a month it should be done making it a 10 month project, then I`ll have 2 months to get a trailer built and be ready for spring :)

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on January 16, 2016 at 11:31pm

Put that planer to work today working on parts for the benches. I`m using the poor mans dust collector (a pillow cover 2.99 200 thread count) This works way better with the zipper than the pillow case did. That thing can make a mess and a half. I filled a big leaf bag in the last couple days. I got all the floor boards planed to 1/2" and put back together.

Cut in some cross braces for the compartments, still have to lay out the notches for the pipes and assemble them

Wanted to use my wood scheme from the transom since my scheme got blown out of the water(oh wait thats a PT boat) I mean drifted away ;) I cut and planed all the door parts and cut a zillion biscuit slots, got one door glued up but didnt have enough clamps to do more. I dont know that this was a good idea or not but I`m moving forward.

Ive got some 3/8" Okume scrap left for compartment bottoms and I might have enough to do a lowered box under at least one seat. And yes, drink holders will get incorporated into the tops!!! I didnt get enough stainless piano hinge, gonna need another pc.

Permalink Reply by David Witton on January 17, 2016 at 5:42am

Lookin' great! I'm gonna have to put my thinking cap on to try and keep up...

I'm been looking for drink holders, and so far have only found ones that are too small to hold cans with insulated sleeves - does anyone know of a source for fatter ones?

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on January 17, 2016 at 8:22am

Send a message to Steve Putnam, he found some for his boat. You can see them in the pictures I took and posted on his page. I stand corrected, I only posted pictures of the holes they fit into!

Rick

PS After Steve's first trip in his boat he had to completely rebuild his oarsman's seat to drop it lower. I don't have any pictures of the rebuilt seat.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on January 17, 2016 at 8:51am

Ya Rick, Ive been looking at and inspired by Steve`s benches for months and decided to run with his idea, but I wanted to use my transom scheme. So now I need to know the details why he wanted to lower his bench. I was gonna add some blocks under the row bench to raise it up, but maybe I`ll wait till I get it all mocked up before I do that. I can see why he had to re build, he went as wide as he could right to the side so lowering it he didnt have room for it to drop.(or maybe just the frt seat)I was just gonna cut a hole like Steves for drinks and they can sit on the bottom of the compatment, but now David has me thinking maybe some inserts might be cool ;)

David, Ive picked up a bunch of stuff for my build from a local west marine store in town here and they have good size recessed holders and a array of other holders and can be found online here too.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/beckson-marine--recessed-drink-holder...

We are getting a snow blizzard here today, I might just have to get the wood stove going and stay in the shop all day.

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on January 17, 2016 at 9:01am

What you didn't see was he also put padded / swivel seat on top of the framework. Even more height!

Rick

Permalink Reply by tungsten on January 17, 2016 at 10:54am

Here's a pic of my bench with the swivel seat, hard to see but looks like bench is 13" I'm 6'6" tall   this works well for me and looks high when a shorter guy is rowing.

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