The Trapper (with banannas)

This message was originally intended for Dave Z as I know he’s built the trapper, but since this is a forum, I figure I make the best of it and get the opinions of the masses to my benefit.

 

While I’ve fished all my life, I’ve only recently become interested in river fishing for salmon. I primarily fish the Trinity which flows about 450-2000 cfs when I fish it. Usually I fish from the bank, but the last couple years I’ve started using a 10’ raft. The raft works fine, but I tend to want to bring more gear or maybe my dad now and then. I’ve planned on building an aluminum drift boat for the last couple years, but recently found a used 16’ wood drift boat that I am now renovating for use on the Sacramento river which is much larger than the Trinity.

 

 I bought Fletchers book and I love it. I think I may be hooked for a while on wood boat building. Of particular interest to me is the Trapper. It appears fairly small, lightweight and especially manageable for one person although I like the idea of being able to carry a passenger. As I know you have built the Trapper, I’d like your honest opinion.

 

 I need a boat I can handle by myself, with the possibility of loading/unloading from a truck. The boat needs especially shallow draft as the Trinity can be real skinny at times. It also has to be able to handle moderate whitewater…I’m thinking class 2 or 3 (I’m no drifter, so don’t really know my classes). It needs to be pretty tough as well as I’m certain to bang off a rock or two. I don’t carry a lot of gear ( 3 fishing poles, tackle and a bananna), but I like the idea of possibly overnight trips with limited camping gear (and a big ice chest for salmon if I choose to kill one) I also would like to be able to carry one passenger. I’d settle for my bigger boat, but I’m kind of a minimalist plus I really just want to build a boat. So what do you think. Is the Trapper something I might like?

 

Additionally, I have some changes I might like to make to the plan. I’m considering a 3/8 bottom with a ¼” shoe. I know you like wood shoes and they tend to make economic sense to me. An option would be no shoe and just straight ½ ply knowing full well I might have to replace it in a couple years? The sides would be ¼. I’m also thinking of oiling the entire boat in and out as well for 2 reasons, economy and weight. I would also like to make both seats adjustable fore and aft to compensate for a guest or lack thereof. The floor boards would be made of the lightest and cheapest material possible…not sure what just yet. Lastly, I’m thinking of doing my first build with construction grade materials aside from the chine log. The plywood would be Monterey pine, the ribs #2 KD S4S DF (has small knots, 1/3 the price of clear), the chine cap and shear rails will be whatever clear material I can scarf togethar. Chine log of white oak. This pine plywood is perfectly clear on one face and has few if any voids. It is lighter than ACX DF which has many more plugs and voids. I have some clear 1x4 cedar on hand I could use for frames or?

 

What do you think? Are there any modifications you might like to do to the trapper? What are your opinions on my materials choice? Would cutting down the height of the square end save any weight? At what expense? How else might I cut weight?

 

Keep in mind, this will be my first build. It doesn’t have to last a lifetime, only this season. The next one (better one) can be my winter project.

 

I am sooo looking forward to this project.

 

This is a great forum! Thank you all for all your ideas.

 

Troy

Views: 967

Attachments:

▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on April 4, 2010 at 8:44am
You have spent a long time thinking about your upcoming boat. I definetly bow to Dav Z's expertise in many areas and hope to use some of his ideas in my upcoming build. One thing to consider is carrying bananas in your boat while fishing. There is a long time superstition against having them in your vessel while fishing. See this page for some interesting ideas on this subject. http://people.howstuffworks.com/fishing-superstition1.htm

Anyway, good luck with your build.

Rick Newman
Permalink Reply by Brad Dimock on April 4, 2010 at 8:52am
Yikes--that's good to know about the bananas. I pack out a Grand Canyon trip in a few days and will make sure the offending fruit does not end up in my dory.
Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on April 4, 2010 at 10:26am
I have long known and respected the 'no Bannanas on a boat' I even made a friend dump them before a three day trip once. The other two I have heard of are don't leave shore from port (or is it starboard?) and don't paint a boat green.
Mike
Permalink Reply by mark hilbert on April 4, 2010 at 10:29am
Thanks Mike, now you tell me! I just walked upstairs from the shop after finishing my first coat of dark green paint over my new build. But hopefully lots of green paint will hide my horrible resin/fiberglass job on the outside.
Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on April 4, 2010 at 11:36am
As to superstions re boats.
It is considered to be unlucky if you say the word pig onboard, or whistle . Blue boats are bad luck. Have no idea the orgin of this stuff. And don't worry about any of it. But then again?
Permalink Reply by Troy Nicolls on April 4, 2010 at 12:10pm
I knew the Bananna comment would peak interest! FYI, I've been warned against bringing banannas onboard my father-in-laws friends charter boat long ago, but when I asked why, I got no legetimate answer. Therefore I ALWAYS take banannas fishing on all my boats. Took a 7 day self guided tidal water/ocean fishing-boat camping trip to the west side of Vancouver island in a 1976 14" gregor with a 1986 merc outboard. We caught tons of fish and the boat didn't break down till I got home and used it for duck hunting. I didn't have any banannas when I was hunting. So you see, I think it NECESSARY to contradict all superstission. It helps one concentrate on fishing and not conjure up false pesimistic vibes.

Now that I've tricked you all into reading...any comment on my build?

Happy Easter
Troy
Permalink Reply by Dave Z on April 4, 2010 at 6:59pm
Troy,

let me see if I can hit all your questions.

First off, I eat about 4-5 bananas a day. I take 2-3 on every fishin trip, boat or not.

Alright.

Here we go...

The Trapper. You are very correct you want to build it light. Keep in mind it will weigh alot more after taking on water at the end of the day. Now, Roger can confirm, but the Trapper was built and aptly named because it was used to run trap lines. I believe the sole seat was the rower seat. The front "tub" area was used to store the pelts and traps, and add weight to balance it out. So, with one person it sits kind of funky in the water the way I built it (with two seats) the rower seat is set back, but the oars are about middle of the boat. with just a rower, it does a "wheelie." You could fix this with a sliding seat arrangement.

Getting it into and out of a full size Tundra is done often. Most of the time with two guys, but has been loaded and unloaded alot with one guy. we use a foam archery target in the bed against the glass of the back window and slide that boat all the way against it with the wide end in first. Unhooking the tailgate helps getting it in and out.

Floorboards- Yes build them light. I built the original set too heavy. the lightest way to do it would be to use 3/8" plywood, cut to fit and removable. Only put them where you need them. You will like this configuration.

Oil finish- yes, sit, I'm a big proponent of it. However, You have to use a wood that takes oil well. Look into your Pine choices a little bit more, perhaps do a pre-build experiment. oil is very easy to maintain as you know and a boat ages nicely. (lets face it, we like the looks of wood boats, right?)

One thing to consider is a plain old latex paint. I'm not sure it would add too much weight and would do the job over the pine you selected if oil is not in the cards. My trapper is painted with three coats of Valspar gloss latex exterior paint over a good primer.


Consider by all means to use the doug fir plywood for your bottom. Your idea to use 3/8 and a 1/4" shoe is adequate. I believe the dual layer of plywood goes a long way to dampen hard hits to minimize impact fractures.

I think a modified trapper with a lower transom end would actually go a long way to balance that boat out. I cannot think of any drawbacks for a single man boat. You will end up with a funky shaped side panel, but I think you have something there worth experimenting with. Get a few manila folders, cut them to scale and tape them together with the side panels, transom and stem. then start trimming and see what you end up with. You won't have to modify the frames/bevels, so its an easy mod. Go for it. Post some pics of your results.

If you have any more questions, or I missed something, let me know.

DaveZ
Permalink Reply by Troy Nicolls on April 5, 2010 at 9:31pm
Dave

Good to know you can load your trapper into your Tundra by yourself. I drive the same rig. Do you have any idea what your trapper weighs? For this first build, I'm thinking of going as light as possible. That might mean cedar frames and the 3/8 pine ply bottom like I mentioned and minimal 3/8 ply floor like you suggested. I did a bit of figuring and think cutting 2" of the transome will only mean a 5 lb savings. Do you think the transome (as in the plans) is too high even if the seat is positioned properly for one person? I'd prefer to keep it somewhat traditional, otherwise I won't be able to call it the trapper.

Also, you mention you used exterior latex over primer on the sides. Did you seal the plywood with epoxy first? Lastly, how many inches of water do you think the trapper draws with 2 mature fishermen aboard?
And thanks for the comprehensive reply!

Anyone...I can't remember, which resist's absorbing oil more, pine or fir?
Permalink Reply by Charles Ray Heater on April 8, 2010 at 1:13pm
Hello Troy:

Dave has some good ideas about building this boat light in weight. Allow me to contribute my own.

We build the 12 Mini-Mac which is very nearly the same boat as the Trapper. In consideration of the boat's weight I would select Sitka Spruce for the framing. Make the bottom frames 2 3/4" wide. Use the Spruce for your stem post laminating 3 each 3/4" pieces and then planing the glued piece to 1 3/4" total thickness. By placing the middle laminate in opposition to the 2 outer pieces you will gain a good strength. Spruce is very strong and very light in weight. Use Spruce for the gunwales and the inner chine. By all means use a hardwood, preferably Sapele 1/2" thick for the outer chine cap.

Use 1/4" Occume for the sides, (no rub rail needed). On the bottom use 3/8" Fir 5 ply. Much of the 3/8" Fir marine is now 4 ply. 4 ply is useless in this application. Glass the inner Fir bottom with 6 oz. S glass and coat the final inner coats with graphite. Then glass with the same material on the outside after attaching to the boat.

Use 1/2" occume for the transom.

Don't bother with constructing floorboards.

Coat the exterior with 3 or 4 coats of epoxy (no glass) then paint or varnish. Use the Spruce for the seat struts. Oil the interior of the boat and gunwales. The boat's interior bottom will not need the oil of course.

When I built my own 12 MiniMac I did the construction as I recommended above. I could launch the boat anywhere there was a path to the river. You will be amazed at how light in weight this boat can be.

Ray
Permalink Reply by Troy Nicolls on April 8, 2010 at 5:41pm
Thanks Ray

I'm probably going to build on the cheap for my first go-around. I still have a 16' rebuild I'm working on. After I build the cheap one, I will make some decisions on how my ultimate build will go. Certainly, I will incorporate ideas of yours. I did not know they made 3/8's in 5 ply? I will have to check with my supplier. I'll also check on the price of sitka. I take it the reason to glass the inner floor and forgoe the floor boards is to reduce weight yet have a tough surface to walk on?

Troy
Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on April 6, 2010 at 2:13pm
The Trinity River from Steelbridge to the North Fork overall is class I with two or three class -II corners. The Trapper should perform just fine. The Trapper would also be an excellent choice for Lewiston Reservoir.
Permalink Reply by Jason Knight on April 7, 2010 at 4:28am
The banana thing is funny. I have seen several boats on the river with this sticker.

RSS

© 2024   Created by Randy Dersham.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service